Our Top 3 Picks:-
Best Choice: OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Test Kit
“This cylinder leak down tester works great. It quickly helps diagnose a sticky intake valve on a bike. Most leak-down testers will do that, too.”
Editor’s Pick: Actron CP7838 Fuel Pressure Tester
“Great tester. I went to one of the popular auto stores to get a rental and I like this one better. This is easy to read and has a nice long hose.”
Best Budget: OTC 5630 Fuel Pressure Test Kit
“I mean what can I say? It really takes that fuel pressure well! Slightly longer hose would be handy, but that might just have been my application and need.”
Do you want to get an accurate reading of the fuel pressure in your vehicle?
Are you worried about the ways of getting rid of the excretion of your sweats?
Do you want to prevent the unusual discharge of the fuel from your vehicle?
If your answer to the above questions is yes, then all you need is the fuel pressure tester. The fuel pressure tester will not only give you an accurate reading of the fuel pressure of your vehicle but also helps you in getting rid of the excretion. Given below is the list of the 10 best fuel pressure tester:
Comparison of 10 Best Fuel Pressure Tester in 2021
Considerations for Buying the Best Fuel Pressure Tester in 2021
The fuel pressure tester not only helps in getting rid of the excretion of your sweats but also makes your journey easy and enjoyable. Designed with the fuel-injected system, it measures the pressure of the fuel in any circumstances; either your engine is off or on. Following are some important points that you must consider before buying:
(1). Super testing capability:
Make sure that your fuel pressure tester must be capable of super testing. It must be designed for the fuel-injected systems and tests the fuel pressure of your vehicle effectively; either car or truck. Also, it must have the adapters to get adjusted for most of the domestic works and helps you in importing the uses without any trouble.
You must make sure that your amazon fuel pressure tester comes with a handy pouch that can store and protect the adapter and gauge and also make you not worry about where the necessary tools to keep. It must have the ability to test your engine while it is either off or on. Also, the material of your product must be of high-quality and also make sure that your vehicle is nicely fitting the threading.
Also, it must have the feature of quick testing of the malfunctioning of the components which are made up of brass usually. Furthermore, it must permit you to measure the pressure of the fuel system in your vehicle safely and easily.
(2). Solid case:
The tester kit must come with the case for gas-driven vehicles and also the 20 pieces of different tools. Also, consider the feature that it is a complete package for your fuel pressure tester. Also, it must have an adapter that is important so that it can work efficiently with different vehicles.
Not only it is easy to store the kit but also gets quickly organized and must be portable so that they can be easily transported. With the availability of a bunch of adapters, make sure that it works great with all kinds of vehicles. Also, make sure that your fuel pressure tester adapters are easy to carry from one place to another and allow you to test the fuel pressure with ease and comfort.
The fitting of the kit must be made up of the high – quality material such as brass. To easily inspect if there is any leak or not, your product must have piston rings, exhaust valves and head gaskets in the fuel pressure kit.
(3). Flex hoses:
Your product must consist of a handy hose which must belong for about 6 feet to provide you with flexible work without bothering you. The long hose can help you in preventing the unusual discharge of fuel when the tester is measuring the pressure of the vehicle.
Your product must have the superpower of inspecting the malfunctioning of the components of the fuel system in your vehicle. The fuel pump pressure gauge tester must be capable of testing the fuel filter, fuel lines, pressure regulators and fuel pumps quickly and efficiently. You must ensure that the hose in your tester must be made up of the high – quality material. Also, it must have the feature of quick testing of the malfunctioning of the components.
(4). Easily readable gauge:
For accurate measurements, it must also consist of the gauge for about two – and – a half-inch in size. Reading of the digits on the tester must be easily visible like crystal clear. Also, it must have dual – scale gauge which can measure the pressure up to 140 PSI which is a good range. The gauge must be large enough that it is easy for you to read the reading.
Also, make sure that the gauge in your product has a resistant rubber. It must have a universal design so that the fuel injection system is easily covered by the hoses, adapters, and fitting of the kits. Also, the best fuel pressure tester for the money must be of high quality which allows you to use it repeatedly and save your money in a huge amount without spending much on the fuel system. Also, make sure that it is not hard for you to read the reading of the pressure measured by the tester.
(5). Highly durable:
The case of your high–quality pressure tester must come with a durable case and it must give you satisfaction after use because you can easily check that your pump is inconsistent or not. To ensure durability, your fuel pressure tester must consist of the high – quality tubing which can easily provide you high performance. The components of the kit of your product must be vacuum–operated so that it can quickly inspect if there is any problem in the fuel system of your vehicle.
Reviews of 10 Best Fuel Pressure Tester in 2021
1. OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit– (Best OTC leak down tester)
OTC’s 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit quickly diagnoses internal engine problems like bad rings, valves, and leaking head gaskets and comes complete with adapters for most applications.
The dual 2-1/2″ gauges read 0-100 psi and 0-700 kPa and feature chrome bezels and rugged protective outer boots. This quick-fix drug test kit features a pressure-regulated manifold with quick couplers, 24 inches long, 14mm flex hose, and 10 mm, 12 mm, and 18 mm thread adapters.
Rugged, blow-molded storage case with a removable lid keeps components organized and protected when not in use. Includes a detailed instruction chart. Value is at the core of this otc 5609 cylinder leak down tester and equipment portfolio.
For a simple repair or the most complex drivability concern, these award-winning balboa quick check test kit universally solve problems faster, and at better value, than any other product line available. Whether it’s a specialty tool or a unique piece of service equipment, OTC provides top solutions to modern automotive service challenges while increasing technician productivity and shop profits.
Engine Cylinder Leak Down Test with OTC Tester Kit
We still want to double-check that there’s no problem with loss of compression and a number one cylinder and the way you do that quick arsenic test kit is with the leak down test so in order to do this job you need a leak down tester and then you need an air compressor to give pressure to the leak down tester because you have to pressurize the cylinder to do this test so when doing a leak down test you’re looking at the percentage of loss so, first of all, you get that cylinder at top dead center compression so that means that the piston is up at the topmost part of its stroke and the intake valves and exhaust valves are closed you pressurize the cylinder using your air compressor.
And leak down tester and then you see how much pressure loss it has if I have a hundred psi going into the cylinder and I noticed that it shows a 10% loss then that would mean that it went down to 90 psi if a cylinder is in good shape it has no more than a 5 to 10% loss of pressure no cylinder is going to be totally airtight so there’s going to be some type of pressure loss if you get in between 10 to 20 percent that’s sort of pointing that you might have some type of issue anything above 20 you probably have some type of issue you’re losing the compression somewhere areas of where you can lose compression number one it could be getting past.
Worn piston rings the piston rings are worn or the cylinder wall is worn in such a way that the rings aren’t making a good seal with the cylinder wall anymore and pressure is able to push past the rings number two is you could have a valve seat problem it could be getting past a bad valve seat for the intake or exhaust valves or you could have a burned valve it’s getting past one of those either the intake or the exhaust valve so that’s number two and number three possibilities number four you can have a bad head gasket the head gasket has broken down and now the pressure is able to get past the bad head gasket and get into the cooling channels and that’s where you’re losing the pressure the fifth possibility is you have a cracked head and with the cracked head also the pressure is able to escape into the cooling channels and so that’s a fifth way so there are five main ways.
That you could be losing compression in your cylinder so now let me show you the compression tester I bought from the company OTC and then I’ll show you the little air compressor I bought from Sears it’s a little craftsman one so here’s the compression tester I bought from OTC its model number five six zero nine when you open it up it has a nice set of instructions built right into the lid here’s the actual gauge set right here and it has a hose down below that you use to screw into the cylinder it has various adapters to screw into different thread sizes into the heads for the sparkplug threads.
Here’s my little air compressor it’s not really meant to power air tools it’s just large enough for me to use for this purpose and for other things like filling tires and that sort of thing so now what we’re going to do as we’re getting some stuff off the engine to where we can get the number one cylinder spark plug out so we can do the leak down test and the number one cylinder is the forward-most cylinder on the passenger side we’re gonna have to get this air tube out of the way once we get the air tube out of the way then we can take the coil pack out and get the spark plug out in order to get this air tube off I’m gonna loosen.
This clamp at the throttle body this clamp right here loosen this clamp right here and slip this hose off unclip this hose from here I’m gonna loosen this clamp so I can disconnect the air tube from the airbox and then we have this wiring harness that’s clipped into a couple rubber clips on the side of the air tube and we have to get this free also and then we should be able to get this whole air tube off the engine so we can get out the coil pack so the first thing I’m going to do is I’m going to get the cylinder leak down test kit wiring harness unclip from these rubber keepers if you get your flat blade screwdriver in between the harness.
And the air tube slip it into the rubber grommet and then twist you could be able to get it out do the same with this one there we go and so we just set that off the side you can see right here these are the little things that will hang you up so if you make a little clearance on the backside then you could slip them out next so I’m gonna start working on some of these clamps so I have a little quarter-inch ratchet short extension ten-millimeter socket you could also just use a Phillips head screwdriver but I’m gonna use the socket I’m just gonna loosen this up and then I’m gonna go up here and loosen these okay those are all nice and loose.
I’m gonna loosen this little constant tension clamp slide it back just twist this off I’m gonna unclip this hose and then now I should be able to just work this thing off work this connection off first work the air tube off of the throttle body and then now I’m gonna work it off of the air tube and there we go it’s out of our way and now you can see that we’re able to expose all the coil packs and we’re gonna pull this coil pack out so first thing I’m gonna do is I’m gonna disconnect the electrical connector to the coil pack it’s gonna push tab right here I’m gonna push it in and then pull back so that’s free I’m gonna see if I can pull this coil pack out without disconnecting the spark plug wire that goes towards the driver’s side so I’m just going to use the same ratchet.
I used to loosen the clamps now I’m gonna back this off so I’m gonna just disconnect this spark plug wire from this little clip and see if I can pull it up and off and just keep it all connected which I can now I’m gonna get a long extension with my 5/8 magnetic spark plug socket and now I’m gonna pull this spark plug there’s generally two type of spark plug sockets one has a rubber grommet that basically grabs the top of the spark plug so it won’t fall out the type I have is the magnetic one and these magnetic ones are leaps and bounds better than the one that uses a rubber grommet because sometimes that rubber grommet will degrade sometimes it could actually pull off and get stuck onto the spark plug so these magnetic ones are really nice to have and I’ll put a link in the video description of this one and then there’s also another set that has extensions already attached and it’s a swivel connection and it’s a nice little kit that I actually just bought one for myself because I saw that my buddy Jordan had one like it and I wanted to own one too so I’ll put links to both of those.
So I just slide it down into the cylinder fill the socket engaged the spark plug and then I’m just using my 3/8 gearwrench flex head ratchet to remove it and we have our spark plug out so now we’re ready to show you the procedure of how you can figure out the cylinder you want to do a leak down test on is at the top of its compression stroke to do a leak down test you need the cylinder all the way up to the top of its travel and you need both of the intake valves and both of the exhaust valves closed on the top of your compression stroke when it’s compressing the air-fuel mixture getting ready for the spark plug to fire the mixture and drive the piston downward that’s what it means to be a top dead center compression the way you do that is you get the spark plug out like we showed you and then you get some type of long tool that you can fit into the cylinder head what I’m using is this long quarter inch drive extension you slide this into your cylinder head through the spark plug hole and then you could feel it resting up against the top of the piston and then get on to the crank pulley with either a half inch drive or 3/8 drive ratchet with a 19 millimeter socket and you turn the engine clockwise because that’s the direction it turned so you want to turn it clockwise you’re watching your extension and you’re noticing when it gets to the top of its travel and you’re just kind of paying attention you might want to just take something you could erase easily like a pencil or something you can clear off maybe a little painters pen and then if you make a mark that you have to erase you could just take some paint thinner and wash it off we already figured out where the top of the travel is and we marked it with a red permanent marker so I’m gonna start turning the crankshaft pulley ball and you’re gonna see this extension start to travel so now what’s going down it’s getting down to a bottom dead center and then it’s going to start traveling upward and what Greg and I did is we use both of our sets of eyes to double check to make sure that okay that is at the top most travel so as it got towards the top and we had a little bit of a landmark whether it’s a mark or on this actual extension we could tell where it ended up with the knurls on this extension we did it a bunch of times and we determined okay that’s the top of the travel and then we finally made a little red mark and then we double-checked the red mark is right at the top of the cylinder head and then now you’re gonna see it start traveling downward again so that’s how you figure out where the top of the stroke is for the piston we’ll do it one more time to show you so there it is so you can see that our red mark is lined up with the top of the cylinder head and that’s our visual indicator that we have the piston at the top of its travel once you figure that out now you’ve got to figure out when the piston is at the top of its travel it’s either one or two things it’s at top dead center compression or it’s at top dead center for the exhaust stroke the way you figure that out is a few different methods the method I’m going to use is I’m going to stick the compressor tester hose into the cylinder screw it in and I’m gonna listen with my ear and when I hear positive pressure coming out that means that I’m on the compression stroke you’re also going to hear some air movement when you’re on the our stroke but that’s going to be negative pressure so you can differentiate between the two by putting your thumb over the top of the end of the hose if you feel that it’s sucking against your glove you know you’re on the our stroke if you feel that it’s kind of pushing air out that means you know you’re on the compression stroke let me show you that air nozzle that comes with the kit that I’m going to use so here’s the air nozzle this one that actually comes on the hose itself is the right size threads the kit like I said does come with adapter so if you had a different sized spark plug thread you could hook up on those adapter and it has an o-ring it doesn’t say anything in the instructions of putting any oil on it but what I’m gonna do just to make sure I get a nice airtight seal as I’m just gonna put just a little bit of oil on this o-ring so I just got this little oil can and I’m just gonna squirt a little bit of oil on there and now all I have to do is stick this down into the spark plug tube and screw this thing in so you just have to feel for the threads engage and then just twist the tube and it will screw in for you when you feel it bottom out just grab a hold of it and give it a twist it doesn’t have to be super tight because that oring is helping make the seal at the top of the cylinder head so once it’s snug you’re good to go I’m gonna put this thing to my ear and I’m gonna start turning the crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise I just heard some air pressure come out now I’m gonna put my finger over the top and try to figure out is this sucking my finger in or is it pushing pressure out so I could feel it sucking against my finger so I know I’m on the Hauer stroke I’m just gonna keep going so now I heard the air noise stop now it’s past the power stroke I’m hearing the air noise again and now it’s gonna double check yeah it’s positive pressure now I now know that I’m on the beginning of the compression stroke the reason why I’m able to hear the air pressure coming out of this tube is because the intake valves are closed and the exhaust valves are closed so that air pressure has to go somewhere and it’s going out this tube into my ear so I can hear it so now I’m gonna disconnect this and now we’re gonna go back to our extension that we put the mark on to now figure out when we’re at the very top of the stroke so place that down in there and now I’m just gonna be watching my extension and looking for that red mark to show up and it’s showing up right now and it looks like we are there we now know that we have the number one cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke so here’s the instructions underneath the lid on my OTC leak down tester and it gets some instructions saying that air sources which basically means the air compressor needs to be temp psi greater than the regulated input pressure on the left-hand gauge what I plan to do is I’m gonna dial my regulator on my little craftsman air compressor to 100 psi and then I’m gonna set the pressure on the left-hand gauge of my OTC leak down tester to 90 psi so here’s the regulator for my air compressor and I have this red knob and so right now it’s at about 120 psi I’m gonna dial it down to 100 so you just rotate it counterclockwise and I’m gonna get it right to 100 and here’s my OTC leak down tester so I have to hook up the air supply to this side so you pull back the collar and you push it on oh there we go so now I need to put this pressure at 90 it has a twist knob but in order to be able to twist it you have to pull it out a lot of them are like this so you can see that it it snaps in and pulls out you snap it out so you can turn the knob and then you start increasing the pressure so you see the needle start the rise and I’m gonna bring this to 90 I lost some air pressure from filling up this tool so I’m gonna crease my pressure on the regulator back up to 100 and then now I should be able to get to that 90 okay we’re finally at 90 and then now what we have to do is we have to connect up our air tube that I was using to listen for the air pressure to the right side so we’re gonna get our air nozzle back screw it into the cylinder we just get it hand tight we have to hook this up to our leak down tester now here’s a word of caution don’t forget to take off the ratchet that you have on the crank pulley bolt because sometimes when you hook the pressure up and you don’t have the cylinder perfect it’s gonna cause the engine to turn over and then that wrench can go flying you don’t want your hands anywhere near the fan or any fan belts and you don’t want your ratchet still connected to the crank pulley bolt so I’m gonna take it up I got my ratchet free and then I’m gonna hook up this air hose to my leak down tester and then we’re gonna hope that the engine doesn’t turn over if it turns over we have to start over we have to slide back the collar and push it in and hook it up we have pressure coming in at 90 psi we’re looking at the right gauge and it looks like it’s right about at 84 psi so that tells us we are losing about 6 psi so we’re at about a 6% loss somewhere in that area so we did a little math and it ends up it’s a 7 percent loss that tells us that his cylinder is fine it’s not the cause of his misfire there doesn’t seem to be anything mechanically wrong with this truck it runs fine it has good power but we’re still trying to figure out what the source of this misfire code popping up is so we can fix it and then he can get his truck registered because right now we can’t get it registered because of this issue so we’re back to the drawing board let’s say you have a very significant loss of pressure and you want to be able to figure out where that pressure is going you can listen in certain spots to figure out where that pressure is going if it’s going past the piston rings you can take your oil filler cap off and listen there you can take your engine dipstick tube out and listen out the dipstick tube may be utilizing that leak down tester as a just a way to get it right up there to listen for any air coming out so those are two areas where you could listen to see if air pressure is getting past the piston rings if it’s getting past it take valve I can listen at the throttle body right here if I hear air pressure coming out of the throttle body then that means I have air pressure getting past the intake valve I can open up the baffles so it makes it less air tight and I could stick my head here and listen for air coming out so that’s how you can determine if the air is getting past about intake valve seat or maybe burnt valve if you want to determine if it’s getting past a bad exhaust valve seat or a bad exhaust valve you can listen to the exhaust and see if you hear air escaping through the tailpipe that is a little bit of a long travel for that air pressure to get down there so another possibility is you get underneath the rig you take the upstream air fuel sensor or o2 sensor out before the catalytic converter and then maybe use a listening device like that air tube from the test kit and see if you could hear air pressure coming out through the exhaust another thing you could do if you could want to determine if it’s a bad head gasket or maybe a cracked head you can take off the radiator cap you look into the top of the radiator and if you see bubbles coming up that means that the air pressure has gotten into the cooling channels and it’s causing air pressure to go into the cooling system and so if you see air bubbles there that means you have an either head gasket leak or you have a cracked head all right so we’re all done with this job for Greg it didn’t produce any answers his cylinder looks like it’s fine for you as the viewing audience you now learn how you can perform a leak down test on one of your cylinders and the logical progression of things you probably did a compression test and then you found one of your cylinders was really low and had a bad compression number compared to the other ones the next step is you want to figure out where is that pressure going so you get yourself a leak down tester like this one for MOTC and I’ll put a link in the video description for this one so you can buy this one too if you decide you want to buy this one you use the procedure that we showed you to figure out that you’re a top dead center on the compression stroke for that cylinder you put in your hose you hook up air pressure to the tester and then you hook up the nozzle into the right side of the tester and then you figure out how much pressure you’re losing in that cylinder if you found that you’re losing a significant amount of pressure then you want to figure out where that pressure is going like I said you can take off the oil filler count or you can pull the oil dipstick and you can listen up those two spots to determine if air pressure is getting past worn piston rings or past worn cylinder walls if there’s no air pressure leaking there then you can check at the throttle body and listen for air pressure to see maybe you have a bad valve seat or bad intake belt and then you can check at the exhaust pipe or you can pull out one of your o2 sensors and listen there to see if you have a bad valve seat for the exhaust belt or a bad exhaust valve finally you can take your radiator cap off and you can see if bubbles are coming up letting you know you have a blown head gasket or you have a cracked head with all that said we thank you for watching Toyota time with Timmy the tool man and Sean and special returning gas Greg thank you for watching thank you for subscribing if you have any questions or comments do that below take care bye bye sick mods and sick leak down tests.
Bought this to test an engine that was creating excessive crankcase pressure. Was told by Dealer the engine needed replacing or repair. Found the compression and leak-down to be very good. So engine appeared to be OK. Found a cracked hose on the brake booster causing the excessive crankcase pressure. This was because the camshaft driven vacuum pump for the booster exhausts into the crankcase. Fixed the hose (replaced) and problem solved. Having this tool to help diagnose the issue saved me 1000’s of dollars. Excellent tool to confirm the overall condition of an engine. This otc 5609 leak down tester would be a great tool to check out a used car if one could take it home and test leak-down. No issues with the OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester. Thanks.
Worked flawlessly. I had an old Harbor Freight leak down tester I used for a couple years. It worked okay, but it couldn’t hold up to higher pressure. This worked and held 100psi no problem. I wanted to test my engine in my Evo before I threw in a lager turbo, and the otc cylinder leak down tester made it an easy job. Feels solid and varies spark plug connectors that will fit just about all engines, all in a solid blow molded case. OTC is a great trusted brand with a good build quality and good warranty. I suspect this will last me many years.
2. Actron CP7838 Professional Fuel Pressure Tester– (Best fuel pressure tester kit)
This fuel pressure tester diagnoses drivability problems caused by poor fuel pressure. It is designed for fuel-injected systems. It features a relief button and a 6-ft hose to safely dispose of gasoline without disconnecting the gauge.
This professional fuel pressure tester kit also works on the throttle body injection with a threaded connection at the fuel filter or throttle body. It is a 2½” gauge with 0-100 psi/0-700 kPa scales for accurate measurements.
The gauge resolution is not optimal for carburetor applications and it does not include any carburetor adapters. To test fuel pressure on carbureted engines, Actron CP7803 Vacuum and Fuel Pressure Tester Kit can be used.
Great tester. I went to one of the popular auto stores to get a rental and I like this one better. The loaner leaked no matter what I tried and was giving me false readings. This is easy to read and has a nice long hose. Nice price as well. My only complaint would be that it does not come in a hard-shell case. It comes with a cheap flat pouch that I find almost impossible to get all the attachments and user manual back in. I have a large lower drawer in my tool chest that I keep all my sensitive testing equipment in so I just carefully toss it in there after use. Would recommend.
This actron professional fuel pressure tester kit thing is to tell you how much fuel pressure you have. It worked but I lost that stupid black cap that does on the nipple. It was a huge pain finding a replacement, and then 6 months later I found the original in my glove compartment, doh. It turned out I had a bad fuel regulator, but this at least help me decide not to replace my fuel pump for no reason. At least I think that’s what I used it for.
This is a good guage for the home mechanic. Kit has adapters for just about any vehicle out, you can even splice into a rubber fuel line if the fuel rail adapter you need isn’t in the kit. My particular vehicle is a Lexus RX300 which is basically a V6 toyota with Lexus decals, this kit came with the proper banjo bolt adapter and sealing washers for me to do the pressure test. The guage is encased in rubber so you can lay it face down on the windshield and check the pressures from inside the vehicle without it sliding down the windshield. The bosch fuel pressure tester kit also has a pressure relief button which is nice to have when your done with your testing. Two things I would want you to do before using the guage for the first time. 1 remove the black test line atached to the guage and wrap the threads in teflon tape. It’s worth 25 seconds of your time to prevent a leak. 2 At the other end of the same black line is a brass fitting, look inside it and you will see a rubber o-ring give it a shot of WD-40. It’s worth another 5 seconds of your time. The extra 30 seconds of prep Gave me a leak free test first use. Happy testing.
3. OTC 5630 Fuel Pressure Test Kit– (Best fuel pressure test kit)
OTC’s 5630 Fuel Pressure Test Kit quickly and easily locates any malfunctioning fuel system component – fuel filters, pressure regulators, fuel lines, and fuel pumps – without the need to remove it from the vehicle.
The large, easy-to-read gauge features an impact-resistant rubber encased housing and reads 0-100 psi, 0-700 kPa. This a fuel pressure test kit with high-quality solid brass fittings, hose, and tubing for long-lasting performance and reliability.
A convenient pressure relief valve allows for safe, clean testing. Quickly and easily locate any malfunctioning fuel system components, including fuel filters, pressure regulators, fuel lines, and fuel pumps without removing this otc master fuel pressure test kit from the vehicle.
I suspected my fuel pump was bad in my Mustang due to a crank and no start situation. I was faced with having to have it towed to a shop and paying a diagnostic fee plus repairs and labor. Instead I sprang for this gauge and followed the instructions included, which are very straight forward. Ruled out other issues that cause a fuel pump to fail (looking on Mustang Forums and U Tube). The gauge test showed no pressure and I replaced the fuel pump. Cranks and runs beautifully with great master fuel pressure test kit. I figure what I save in repair costs more than offset the price of this gauge. The gauge is well made. I’ve see higher end gauges, but for the DIY’er it is all you need.
I use this fuel pressure tester master kit now for my Jeep and other friends Jeeps. It is as advertised no more no less so if your a professional mechanic may no meet your expectations…? then again it might? For a weekend warrior it is more than enough. It seems well made and has worked perfect every time I have used it so far. I like the fact the hose is long enough to let pressure off before unhooking the gauge and spill gas safely away from the engine into a jar. I stick the hose into my lawn mower gas can to release the gas into so I don’t have to clean up anything or have extra trash. The numbers for us older peeps on the gauge are easy to see and read and are printed clearly. Cannot say yet how it last since I have not had it that long, but the otc fuel pressure tester master kit appears to be well made enough to last the life of my old heep,… and maybe even me? (: All and all I recommend this to anyone.
4. OTC 5605 Deluxe Compression Tester Kit– (Best compression test kit)
OTC’s 5605 Deluxe Compression Tester Kit offers a complete package for compression testing on gasoline engines and comes complete with standard and specialty adapters. In addition to more common adapters, this compression test kit includes the deep well connector used on recessed plug well style heads and the Ford Triton engine adapter using 16 mm thread plugs.
All metal components feature a corrosion-resistant nickel-plated finish. Adapters work on both flat and tapered seat plugs. Extra-long 25″ flex hose gauge assembly with quick coupler allows easy viewing out of cluttered engine compartments. 2-1/2″ gauge features chrome bezel and rugged protective outer boot.
Dual scale gauge reads 0-300 psi and 0-2100 kPa. Adapters: 8″ deep well-14mm connector, 5″ flex Ford Triton 16mm adapter, 12″ flex-14mm standard reach, 12″ flex-14mm long reach, and 10mm, 12mm, and 18mm thread adapters. Rugged blow-molded hard case with best compression tester components contained and organized when not in use. Includes repair parts kit.
We bought this for our auto repair shop to do cylinder compression tests. This pittsburgh compression test kit is very professional and has superseded our expectations. This helped us detect bad valves on a 2010 dodge charger. Upon initial testing this helped our mechanic see that 3 valves were losing compression. Then with the customer’s approval for a tear down, it was confirmed that those 3 valves were in deed not seating correctly due to carbon build up. The car had been performing badly with symptoms of running rough at idle and at high speeds. This tool was awesome in helping to pinpoint the problem quickly and accurately I recommend this to all mechanics who do heavy engine work as you will not be disappointed in this piece of equipment!
Same set sold on MAC and Matco trucks. I have only this set with no additional adapters and have always had exactly what I need, right here. I don’t do too much with diesels, so I can’t speak for the coverage there. But for regular automotive use, the actron compression tester kit is all you need. OTC is hit and miss with quality, but this set is spot on. Plus you can warranty or replace the individual pieces with your MAC or Matco dealers as you need them. My coworker has the same MAC set that he paid over $200 for. LOL, He just doesn’t understand. I compared them side by side, and he was still not convinced. Highly recommended for any tech or home mechanic.
5. OTC 5606 Compression Tester Kit for Gasoline Engines– (Best otc deluxe compression tester kit 5605)
OTC’s 5606 Compression Tester Kit is ideal for use on all types of gasoline engines including domestic, import, motorcycle, marine, and small engines. Professional quality, dual scale 2-1/2 inch diameter gauge reads 0-300 psi and 0-2100 kPa and features a chrome bezel, rugged protective outer boot, and zero adjust feature.
This otc deluxe compression tester kit 5605 includes 12″ flex 14mm standard, 12″ flex 14mm long reach, and 10mm, 12mm, and 18mm thread adapters – adapters work on both flat and tapered seat plugs.
Extra-long 25″ flex hose gauge assembly with quick coupler allows easy viewing out of cluttered engine compartments. Corrosion-resistant nickel-plated finish protects metal components.
I bought the otc compression tester kits 5606 unit to test cylinder compression in my 2001 Buick LeSabre. It’s pretty easy to use and seems to give accurate readings. You just disconnect the fuel injector connectors so there is no electrical current to power them, disconnect the ignition control module, so there is no spark to the spark plugs, remove all the spark plugs from the cylinder heads, screw in the compression tool BY HAND (DO NOT USE TOOLS TO TIGHTEN THE COMPRESSION TESTER INTO THE CYLINDER HEAD THREADS!!) into a cylinder, have someone crank the engine while you check the compression rating on the tool, let the engine crank a few times, then let the best inexpensive compression tester rest. Do this until you don’t see the needle on the gauge go any higher. Write down each compression rating on a piece of paper. Look at all the compression ratings. They should be within 15% of each other. Take your highest compression from your recordings and multiply it by .15. Subtract that sum from your highest rating and that is your lowest possible compression. Meaning if any of your cylinders are lower than your lowest possible compression, that is your problem. OTC has never failed me as far as any tools I’ve bought by them and I give this tool 5 stars for it’s accuracy and ease of use.
Really easy to use. I think this is easier to use than the ones that come with just a cable attached to the gauge because you can screw on the hose easily without having to worry about space requirements with the gauge and worry about hitting anything. Just screw on the hose, then quick attach the gauge, and start your reading. I was not able to test it’s accuracy against other gauges but I was assured it was accurate by a mechanic.
6. Abn Fuel Injection Pressure Test Kit– (Best fuel injection pressure test kit)
The new and improved ABN Comprehensive Universal Fuel Pressure Tester Master Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit is a complete fuel test gauge package that quickly tests the fuel pump pressure on injector systems.
This is the best fuel pressure test gauge high-quality fuel pressure gauge hose replacements have been improved with implanted fiber; Fitted with a quick coupling system and pressure release valve fitting with a long drain hose to prevent inadvertent discharge of fuel while testing and to allow for the safe recovery of fuel; Fuel injection pressure gauge displays reading 0-100 PSI and 0 to 7 Bar.
This automotive fuel pressure test kit adapters fuel gauge kit has all necessary fittings to attach to a pressurized system; Will work on any vehicle as long as it has a Schrader test port fuel injection system or as long as you can splice an inline connection; Recommended for older low-pressure systems with mechanical fuel pumps; Not compatible with Bosch, CIS-Jetronic, or GM throttle body systems.
Watch First Unboxing – ABN Fuel Injection Pressure Test Set
Just wanted to show how to make the automotive fuel pressure tester kit work on fuel rails with a schrader valve. If you look at the hose and fitting connected to the actual fuel pressure gauge there is a a built in adjustable schrader valve on the end (refer to the picture). It ships to you turned completely down. If you take a tire valve remover and rotate the valve counter clock wise it will adjust the valve outward so that it can depress the valve on the fuel rail. These work perfect on GM and other schrader valve fuel rails once you have adjusted it out. Hope it helps.
This is a full set of pittsburgh automotive master fuel injection pressure test kit, in its blow molded case. It comes with all the necessary parts needed to test just about every car made. After buying and receiving it, I was able to check it out and put it to its test. It worked as expected, gave me a clear and to the point pressure reading. It also held the pressure test for over 5 minutes. Which is excellent, since most important fuel pressure test is that. For the pump to be able to hold its pressure for 5 minutes or more. So, in short. If your looking to buy one? ABN has proven to be a serious contender. With its quality parts and price, it will win you over. You can’t/won’t find a better deal for its price. Take it from me, I’ve been in the business, for over 35 years. And still going! This test kit makes it easy for me and the boys at my shop to work and earn our living.
Initially the gauge read 0 pressure on my fuel line, because the Schrader valve stem at the end of the gauge hose was screwed all the way in and wouldn’t reach the Schrader valve stem on the fuel rail of my Jeep Grand Cherokee. I unscrewed the valve stem from the end of the gauge hose using needle nose pliers until it came off. Then I put in the fuel injection pressure tester adapter kit back in just 2 or 3 full turns, and voila, it worked perfectly, 49 psi, the exact spec for the Jeep. While it does not have a fuel relief hose, a shop towel wrapped around the valve works just fine.
7. BETOOLL Fuel Injector Pressure Tester Kit– (Best fuel injector pressure tester)
The BETOOLL Fuel Injector Pressure Tester Kit included adapters, hoses, and fittings cover all fuel injection systems and most cars and trucks worldwide! It has a Fuel Injection Pump Pressure / Oil Combustion Spraying Pressure Gauge Teste.
This marine fuel injector pressure testing Designed for repeated use with high-quality materials for maximum durability. It is a money-saving tool & saves hundreds of dollars on fuel injection tester kit. It’s Measuring range is 0-140psi (0-10 bar).
The gauge will hold pressure values and has a pressure release valve with drain hose for safe fuel recovery. Components of this fuel injector pressure drop test made of high-quality Brass, rugged and long-lasting.
Well, I’ll try to make this short and sweet. I used this Betooll fuel injector pump pressure tester for the first time to check out my father’s 1995 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale last week Friday. You know, I didn’t even have to use any of the other fittings that came with the fuel pressure tester kit as there was absolutely no need to. In fact, all that I had to do was to open the case, take out the fuel pressure tester, and screw the attached connector onto the fuel rail. Afterwards, I simply turned the ignition key to the ‘ON’ position, and then monitored the pump pressure gauge. Seeing that the fuel pump was delivering 46 PSI, my father’s car obviously didn’t have a fuel problem which was all that I needed to know. What I can tell you was that this must have been a very precision made pump pressure tester as there were no leaks or mess anywhere. It was then a simple matter of activating the pressure release valve on the gauge which conveniently discharged any remaining gas into a small tin can that was lying around nearby. Even then, there was only a trickle of gas that actually made its way into the tin can which quickly evaporated out. So, after disconnecting the fuel pressure tester from the fuel rail, I then reconnected the fuel rail cap. Well, so now you know. This looks like a real winner to me folks!
Worked great! All the adapters it came with are a plus. After almost going crazy trying to figure out why my car wouldn’t start (It was getting fuel, spark, air and the timing was correct). I bought this on a hunch. Using this I found out the fuel injector pressure test kit was there but really low after the fuel pump. Pull the pump out and saw that it had a bad hose in the tank. This product saved my insanity.
Thankfully, I finally got the fuel injector pressure tester kit right on the third try. I used the tester for a ’99 Saturn SL2 which ultimately required an adjustable nozzle adapter to fit on the port. This one sealed successfully, as the adjustable design worked as intended and I could definitively compare where the BlueDriver one failed. The BETOOLL worked perfectly, didn’t leak, and I got a nice, clean PSI reading. You can buy an inexpensive kit, but it has to get the job done. I went with a questionable brand and an untested brand, and those didn’t cut it. So do yourself a favor and invest in this tool, because it will actually get the job done.
8. Shankly Compression Tester (Professional Grade)– (Best diesel fuel pressure tester)
Engine compression tester with long flex hose and adapters eliminate the need to remove secondary equipment such as power brakes, steering, air conditioning and manifold components.
Shankly compression tester is compatible with domestic and imported cars and trucks with gasoline engines. This diesel fuel pressure tester serves as a dependable engine compression tester for mechanics.
The compression gauge set includes a 14mm / 18mm solid short adapter, 14mm/18mm long flexible adapter and 14mm long reach adapter. With a professional compression gauge, this Cat diesel fuel pressure tester ensures accurate and reliable readings. An ideal tool for compression tester small engine, medium or large engines.
Check a live test of Shankly Compression Tester:
Amazon link: Shankly Compression Tester
I had originally bought a duramax diesel fuel pressure tester from Harbor Freight and despite their recent changes to better the quality of the products in their store, their compression tester said a chainsaw engine I was working on only had 20% compression. I knew it would be low but even a worn out engine I wouldn’t expect that low unless something was majorly wrong with it. I returned it and bought this one for a whopping 3 dollars more and holy crap… This is a good professional quality one without the professional price. The compression 88% with this one. Alright. That’s a lot more believable and accurate. Definitely recommend this product.
Decent gauge wrapped in cheap but OK rubber. Hoses and attachments seem well made. Using this to diagnose problems with our jet ski. The included hoses, fittings and adapters were all the correct sizes we needed, and all were “O” ring sealed. The diesel engine fuel pressure tester is well laid out and all the included parts all have their own spot in the case. Each piece is securely held in place, so your stuff wont be in a jumbled mess when you open it. For the price, I am very pleased with this kit. Arrived well packed as well.
9. INNOVA Equus 3640 Fuel Injection Pressure Tester– (Best fuel injection pressure tester)
INNOVA Equus 3640 Fuel Injection Pressure Tester form INNOVA has large, easy-to-read 2″ dial face with 0-100 PSI scale. It has a durable 16″ gauge hose and 6-foot bleed-off hose with solid brass fittings.
This Fuel Injection Pressure Tester includes Ford, GM and Chrysler test adapters and a “Tee” adapter for import vehicles. This tester helps identify and diagnose low fuel pressure, a faulty fuel pressure regulator, the leaking injector(s), fuel leaks and/or clogged fuel filters.
This direct injection fuel pressure tester helps identify and diagnose low fuel pressure, a faulty fuel pressure regulator, leaking injectors, fuel leaks, and clogged fuel filters
Thought I was facing a $700 plus bill to replace a fuel pressure regulator and/or fuel pump on a 5.7L Vortec with 253,000 miles on it. Vehicle idled smoothly, but did have an occasional strong hesitation. These two conditions are somewhat contradictory so I thought check the fuel pressure as the dealership originally proposed (and they wanted to replace all the injectors). Was I shocked when the turn “key on” consistently showed 63 psi and running 57 psi. With engine off it held the pressure over 55 psi for over 15 minutes, no vacuum leak here. Cleaned the throttle plate/body and immediately saw an improvement per the scanner of the throttle position. Replaced the MAP sensor, cleaned the Mass Air Flow and used two bottles of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner and my Vortec started running like new. The moral here is for the price and the exceptional quality of the tool you just might save yourself a lot of money. For the price and the quality of the tool, if you are suspicious of a equus 3640 professional fuel injection pressure tester issue you can’t go wrong with the Equus 3640.
For occasional use – this seems like it will do just fine – comes with adapters, hoses, complete instructions, etc. Worth even one time use compared to taking vehicle to shop (or misdiagnosing fuel pump). (I put 5 stars for accuracy, however that’s my guess – basically your pump/pressure regulator are within spec, or not. +/- a pound or two not critical.
10. PMD Products Fuel Injection Pump Pressure Tester Kit– (Best fuel pressure gauge tester)
Test gasoline fuel pump pressure on most fuel injection-equipped vehicles (Except for CIS-Jetronic, Bosch and GM throttle body systems). Components of this fuel pressure gauge tester fitted with a quick coupling system and safety valve to prevent inadvertent discharge of fuel under pressure.
This fuel pump pressure test gauge of adaptors and fittings for modern Schrader test-port fuel injection systems. Its gauge calibrated from 0 – 150 PSI (0-10 bar). This tester kit includes assorted hoses with brass fittings, brass fittings, and steel clamps to work on most vehicles.
Check the video guide on: MD Products Fuel Injection Pump Pressure Tester Kit
FAQs on the Best Fuel Pressure Tester for 2021
What is the fuel pressure tester?
You need the tester to check the fuel pressure as you may not always consider your guesswork because in many cases it cannot be accurate. The wrong reading can sometimes lead to the damaging of your fuel pump by pushing it further. Also, you down not need any expert to check the fuel pressure of your vehicle and you can do it on your own as you do not need to acquire much knowledge about it. Also, you can save your money as you do not have to go to any workshop for the simple measurement of the fuel pressure of your vehicle. When the multiple fittings are connected to your vehicle and
How to use your fuel pressure tester?
The first and foremost step is that you must park your vehicle in a ventilated area for safety purposes as the fuel vapor is more dangerous than the liquid fuel due to its flammable nature and make sure that there you keep a fire extinguisher near you while testing the fuel pressure. The is designed in such a way that it consists of the gauge which is attached to the fuel hose and multiple fittings. Pop the hood when the engine of your vehicle is all cool. Remove the Schrader valve which you can find under a fuel rail or plastic engine cover. Attach the pressure tester for fuel pump with the fitting provided in your vehicle. For a leak-proof fitting, make sure that you have properly threaded. Turn on the ignition and check the reading of the PSI displayed clearly on the gauge. Wait for any PSI drop which indicates the leaking in the fuel system of your vehicle. If the reading remains constant after some time for about 5 – 10 minutes then it does not have any fuel-related problem. Also, you need to understand the low, high, or zero pressure shown in the gauge of your fuel pressure tester.
Why the fuel pressure gets dropped?
The reason behind the dropping of the fuel pressure is the weak pumps, so it is very important to take good care of the pump of your tester. Also, it can be due to the restricted lines, dirty filters and improper tank venting so it is important to check if the pump is in good condition or not. You can easily inspect that your fuel pump is properly working or not as it makes a sound when not in good condition. Also, it can indicate to you by sputtering or coughing that it is not in a good working scenario and there is some problem with it.
What is an average PSI of your fuel pressure tester?
Usually, the average PSI of the fuel pressure tester is considered to be 100- 140 as it a good range of measurement. Also, make sure that the pressure of the fuel system in your car should not be low, zero or high and must be in mild to provide you with high performance. With the low pressure, you may face some severe problems like it may be struggling for you to start your vehicle or stalling, hesitation or backfiring. With the high pressure of your tester, you may face some major issues which are due to the damaged regulator or a clogged fuel line. If the gauge reads the zero pressure, this means that the fuel pump is dead and would not get sufficient power. You must then ensure that the fuse of the fuel pump is in working condition. Make sure that the fuel pump does not deliver the fuel with high, low or zero pressure and understand the reading of the gauge properly.
How to inspect the fuel regulator of your vehicle?
There are many indicators that the regulator of your vehicle would indicate if they are not working properly. It is important to note that they are a very important tool for your pressure tester so you must take good care of it and replace it if it is not working. If there are any misfires, leaks, or black smoke then you must change the regulator. To easily inspect if there is any leak or not, your product must have piston rings, exhaust valves, and head gaskets in the fuel pressure kit. When there is a misfire or decrease in the power, acceleration, and efficiency of fuel, then it indicates the failure of the regulator and will disturb the fuel pressure of the vehicle. Also, due to the fuel leak, the regulator of your vehicle is affected which leads to the emission of black smoke from the tailpipe. And the fuel smell will tell you that the failure of the regulator is due to a fuel leak which may adversely affect the performance of the engine in your car and also reduces the mpg. As the regulator is an essential component of your pressure tester for fuel pump, you must take good care of it and if you find any fault then you must get your vehicle check by the technician near you and get it to replace.
How to Perform a Cylinder Compression Test?
If I wish, then I would personally recommend for OTC 5605 Deluxe Compression Tester Kit as it comes with the Extra-long 25″ flex hose which helps you in preventing the leakage of the fuel from the vehicle. Also, the kit provided with it is of high quality which allows you to use it repeatedly and save your money in huge amount without spending much on the fuel system
The listed amazon fuel pressure tester will not only test the fuel pressure of the vehicles but also enhance your journey on the road. According to your wish, you can buy any of the listed fuel pressure testers.
Edmond Clark is a 34-year-old Blogger from California, USA. He is a Certified Market Research Professional (MRP) & a full-time blogger. His aim is to help the consumer to choose the best product from the market. Contact him for any of your queries.