Do you want to get an accurate reading of the fuel pressure in your vehicle?
Are you worried about the ways of getting rid of the excretion of your sweats?
Do you want to prevent the unusual discharge of the fuel from your vehicle?
If your answer to the above questions is yes, then all you need is the fuel pressure tester. The fuel pressure tester will not only give you an accurate reading of the fuel pressure of your vehicle but also helps you in getting rid of the excretion. Given below is the list of the 10 best fuel pressure tester:
Comparison of 10 Best Fuel Pressure Tester in 2020
OTC’s 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester Kit quickly diagnoses internal engine problems like bad rings, valves, and leaking head gaskets and comes complete with adapters for most applications.
The dual 2-1/2″ gauges read 0-100 psi and 0-700 kPa and feature chrome bezels and rugged protective outer boots. Kit features a pressure-regulated manifold with quick couplers, 24 inches long, 14mm flex hose, and 10 mm, 12 mm, and 18 mm thread adapters.
Rugged, blow-molded storage case with removable lid keeps components organized and protected when not in use. Includes a detailed instruction chart. Value is at the core of the OTC tool and equipment portfolio.
For a simple repair or the most complex drivability concern, these award-winning tools universally solve problems faster, and at better value, than any other product line available. Whether it’s a specialty tool or unique piece of service equipment, OTC provides top solutions to modern automotive service challenges while increasing technician productivity and shop profits.
Welcome to toy at a time with Timmy the tool man and Shawn and special returning gas Greg and if you remember Greg Greg is the guy who has the first gen tacoma with a misfire problem with this number one cylinder we’ve been trying to figure this thing out we’ve been doing some diagnostics we’ve been thrown some parts at it which I know some people think that’s probably not the smartest thing to do but yes we have thrown some parts at it and we haven’t figured it out yet today what we’re gonna do is we’re gonna do a leak down test of the number one cylinder even though we got a good compression number for the number one cylinder we still want to double-check that there’s no problem with loss of compression and a number one cylinder and the way you do that is with the leak down test so in order to do this job you need a leak down tester and then you need an air compressor to give pressure to the leak down tester because you have to pressurize the cylinder to do this test so when doing a leak down test you’re looking at the percentage of loss so first of all you get that cylinder at top dead center compression so that means that the piston is up at the topmost part of its stroke and the intake valves and exhaust valves are closed you pressurize the cylinder using your air compressor and leak down tester and then you see how much pressure loss it has if I have a hundred psi going into the cylinder and I noticed that it shows a 10% loss then that would mean that it went down to 90 psi if a cylinder is in good shape it has no more than a 5 to 10% loss of pressure no cylinder is going to be totally airtight so there’s going to be some type of pressure loss if you get in between 10 to 20 percent that’s sort of pointing that you might have some type of issue anything above 20 you probably have some type of issue you’re losing the compression somewhere areas of where you can lose compression number one it could be getting past worn piston rings the piston rings are worn or the cylinder wall is worn in such a way that the rings aren’t making a good seal with the cylinder wall anymore and pressure is able to push past the rings number two is you could have a valve seat problem it could be getting past a bad valve seat for the intake or exhaust valves or you could have a burned valve it’s getting past one of those either the intake or the exhaust valve so that’s number two and number three possibilities number four you can have a bad head gasket the head gasket has broken down and now the pressure is able to get past the bad head gasket and get into the cooling channels and that’s where you’re losing the pressure a fifth possibility is you have a cracked head and with the cracked head also the pressure is able to escape into the cooling channels and so that’s a fifth way so there’s five main ways that you could be losing compression in your cylinder so now let me show you the compression tester I bought from the company OTC and then I’ll show you the little air compressor I bought from Sears it’s a little craftsman one so here’s the compression tester I bought from OTC its model number five six zero nine when you open it up it has a nice set of instructions built right into the lid here here’s the actual gauge set right here and it has a hose down below that you use to screw into the cylinder it has various adapters to screw into different thread sizes into the heads for the sparkplug threads here’s my little air compressor it’s not really meant to power air tools it’s just large enough for me to use for this purpose and for other things like filling tires and that sort of thing so now what we’re going to do as we’re get some stuff off the engine to where we can get the number one cylinder spark plug out so we can do the leak down test and the number one cylinder is the forward-most cylinder on the passenger side we’re gonna have to get this air tube out of the way once we get the air tube out of the way then we can take the coil pack out and get the spark plug out in order to get this air tube off I’m gonna loosen this clamp at the throttle body this clamp right here loosen this clamp right here and slip this hose off unclip this hose from here I’m gonna loosen this clamp so I can disconnect the air tube from the airbox and then we have this wiring harness that’s clipped into a couple rubber clips on the side of the air tube and we have to get this free also and then we should be able to get this whole air tube off the engine so we can get out the coil pack so the first thing I’m going to do is I’m going to get this wiring harness unclip from these rubber keepers if you get your flat blade screwdriver in between the harness and the air tube slip it into the rubber grommet and then twist you could be able to get it out do the same with this one there we go and so we just set that off the side you can see right here these are the little things that will hang you up so if you make a little clearance on the backside then you could slip them out next so I’m gonna start working on some of these clamps so I have a little quarter inch ratchet short extension ten millimeter socket you could also just use a Phillips head screwdriver but I’m gonna use the socket I’m just gonna loosen this up and then I’m gonna go up here and loosen these okay those are all nice and loose I’m gonna loosen this little constant tension clamp slide it back just twist this off I’m gonna unclip this hose and then now I should be able to just work this thing off work this connection off first work the air tube off of the throttle body and then now I’m gonna work it off of the air tube and there we go it’s out of our way and now you can see that we’re able to expose all the coil packs and we’re gonna pull this coil pack out so first thing I’m gonna do is I’m gonna disconnect the electrical connector to the coil pack it’s gonna push tab right here I’m gonna push it in and then pull back so that’s free I’m gonna see if I can pull this coil pack out without disconnecting the spark plug wire that goes towards the driver’s side so I’m just going to use the same ratchet I used to loosen the clamps now I’m gonna back this off so I’m gonna just disconnect this spark plug wire from this little clip and see if I can pull it up and off and just keep it all connected which I can now I’m gonna get a long extension with my 5/8 magnetic spark plug socket and now I’m gonna pull this spark plug there’s generally two type of spark plug sockets one has a rubber grommet that basically grabs the top of the spark plug so it won’t fall out the type I have is the magnetic one and these magnetic ones are leaps and bounds better than the one that uses a rubber grommet because sometimes that rubber grommet will degrade sometimes it could actually pull off and get stuck onto the spark plug so these magnetic ones are really nice to have and I’ll put a link in the video description of this one and then there’s also another set that has extensions already attached and it’s a swivel connection and it’s a nice little kit that I actually just bought one for myself because I saw that my buddy Jordan had one like it and I wanted to own one too so I’ll put links to both of those so I just slide it down into the cylinder fill the socket engaged the spark plug and then I’m just using my 3/8 gearwrench flex head ratchet to remove it and we have our spark plug out so now we’re ready to show you the procedure of how you can figure out the cylinder you want to do a leak down test on is at the top of its compression stroke to do a leak down test you need the cylinder all the way up to the top of its travel and you need both of the intake valves and both of the exhaust valves closed on the top of your compression stroke when it’s compressing the air-fuel mixture getting ready for the spark plug to fire the mixture and drive the piston downward that’s what it means to be a top dead center compression the way you do that is you get the spark plug out like we showed you and then you get some type of long tool that you can fit into the cylinder head what I’m using is this long quarter inch drive extension you slide this into your cylinder head through the spark plug hole and then you could feel it resting up against the top of the piston and then get on to the crank pulley with either a half inch drive or 3/8 drive ratchet with a 19 millimeter socket and you turn the engine clockwise because that’s the direction it turned so you want to turn it clockwise you’re watching your extension and you’re noticing when it gets to the top of its travel and you’re just kind of paying attention you might want to just take something you could erase easily like a pencil or something you can clear off maybe a little painters pen and then if you make a mark that you have to erase you could just take some paint thinner and wash it off we already figured out where the top of the travel is and we marked it with a red permanent marker so I’m gonna start turning the crankshaft pulley ball and you’re gonna see this extension start to travel so now what’s going down it’s getting down to a bottom dead center and then it’s going to start traveling upward and what Greg and I did is we use both of our sets of eyes to double check to make sure that okay that is at the top most travel so as it got towards the top and we had a little bit of a landmark whether it’s a mark or on this actual extension we could tell where it ended up with the knurls on this extension we did it a bunch of times and we determined okay that’s the top of the travel and then we finally made a little red mark and then we double-checked the red mark is right at the top of the cylinder head and then now you’re gonna see it start traveling downward again so that’s how you figure out where the top of the stroke is for the piston we’ll do it one more time to show you so there it is so you can see that our red mark is lined up with the top of the cylinder head and that’s our visual indicator that we have the piston at the top of its travel once you figure that out now you’ve got to figure out when the piston is at the top of its travel it’s either one or two things it’s at top dead center compression or it’s at top dead center for the exhaust stroke the way you figure that out is a few different methods the method I’m going to use is I’m going to stick the compressor tester hose into the cylinder screw it in and I’m gonna listen with my ear and when I hear positive pressure coming out that means that I’m on the compression stroke you’re also going to hear some air movement when you’re on the our stroke but that’s going to be negative pressure so you can differentiate between the two by putting your thumb over the top of the end of the hose if you feel that it’s sucking against your glove you know you’re on the our stroke if you feel that it’s kind of pushing air out that means you know you’re on the compression stroke let me show you that air nozzle that comes with the kit that I’m going to use so here’s the air nozzle this one that actually comes on the hose itself is the right size threads the kit like I said does come with adapter so if you had a different sized spark plug thread you could hook up on those adapter and it has an o-ring it doesn’t say anything in the instructions of putting any oil on it but what I’m gonna do just to make sure I get a nice airtight seal as I’m just gonna put just a little bit of oil on this o-ring so I just got this little oil can and I’m just gonna squirt a little bit of oil on there and now all I have to do is stick this down into the spark plug tube and screw this thing in so you just have to feel for the threads engage and then just twist the tube and it will screw in for you when you feel it bottom out just grab a hold of it and give it a twist it doesn’t have to be super tight because that oring is helping make the seal at the top of the cylinder head so once it’s snug you’re good to go I’m gonna put this thing to my ear and I’m gonna start turning the crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise I just heard some air pressure come out now I’m gonna put my finger over the top and try to figure out is this sucking my finger in or is it pushing pressure out so I could feel it sucking against my finger so I know I’m on the Hauer stroke I’m just gonna keep going so now I heard the air noise stop now it’s past the power stroke I’m hearing the air noise again and now it’s gonna double check yeah it’s positive pressure now I now know that I’m on the beginning of the compression stroke the reason why I’m able to hear the air pressure coming out of this tube is because the intake valves are closed and the exhaust valves are closed so that air pressure has to go somewhere and it’s going out this tube into my ear so I can hear it so now I’m gonna disconnect this and now we’re gonna go back to our extension that we put the mark on to now figure out when we’re at the very top of the stroke so place that down in there and now I’m just gonna be watching my extension and looking for that red mark to show up and it’s showing up right now and it looks like we are there we now know that we have the number one cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke so here’s the instructions underneath the lid on my OTC leak down tester and it gets some instructions saying that air sources which basically means the air compressor needs to be temp psi greater than the regulated input pressure on the left-hand gauge what I plan to do is I’m gonna dial my regulator on my little craftsman air compressor to 100 psi and then I’m gonna set the pressure on the left-hand gauge of my OTC leak down tester to 90 psi so here’s the regulator for my air compressor and I have this red knob and so right now it’s at about 120 psi I’m gonna dial it down to 100 so you just rotate it counterclockwise and I’m gonna get it right to 100 and here’s my OTC leak down tester so I have to hook up the air supply to this side so you pull back the collar and you push it on oh there we go so now I need to put this pressure at 90 it has a twist knob but in order to be able to twist it you have to pull it out a lot of them are like this so you can see that it it snaps in and pulls out you snap it out so you can turn the knob and then you start increasing the pressure so you see the needle start the rise and I’m gonna bring this to 90 I lost some air pressure from filling up this tool so I’m gonna crease my pressure on the regulator back up to 100 and then now I should be able to get to that 90 okay we’re finally at 90 and then now what we have to do is we have to connect up our air tube that I was using to listen for the air pressure to the right side so we’re gonna get our air nozzle back screw it into the cylinder we just get it hand tight we have to hook this up to our leak down tester now here’s a word of caution don’t forget to take off the ratchet that you have on the crank pulley bolt because sometimes when you hook the pressure up and you don’t have the cylinder perfect it’s gonna cause the engine to turn over and then that wrench can go flying you don’t want your hands anywhere near the fan or any fan belts and you don’t want your ratchet still connected to the crank pulley bolt so I’m gonna take it up I got my ratchet free and then I’m gonna hook up this air hose to my leak down tester and then we’re gonna hope that the engine doesn’t turn over if it turns over we have to start over we have to slide back the collar and push it in and hook it up we have pressure coming in at 90 psi we’re looking at the right gauge and it looks like it’s right about at 84 psi so that tells us we are losing about 6 psi so we’re at about a 6% loss somewhere in that area so we did a little math and it ends up it’s a 7 percent loss that tells us that his cylinder is fine it’s not the cause of his misfire there doesn’t seem to be anything mechanically wrong with this truck it runs fine it has good power but we’re still trying to figure out what the source of this misfire code popping up is so we can fix it and then he can get his truck registered because right now we can’t get it registered because of this issue so we’re back to the drawing board let’s say you have a very significant loss of pressure and you want to be able to figure out where that pressure is going you can listen in certain spots to figure out where that pressure is going if it’s going past the piston rings you can take your oil filler cap off and listen there you can take your engine dipstick tube out and listen out the dipstick tube may be utilizing that leak down tester as a just a way to get it right up there to listen for any air coming out so those are two areas where you could listen to see if air pressure is getting past the piston rings if it’s getting past it take valve I can listen at the throttle body right here if I hear air pressure coming out of the throttle body then that means I have air pressure getting past the intake valve I can open up the baffles so it makes it less air tight and I could stick my head here and listen for air coming out so that’s how you can determine if the air is getting past about intake valve seat or maybe burnt valve if you want to determine if it’s getting past a bad exhaust valve seat or a bad exhaust valve you can listen to the exhaust and see if you hear air escaping through the tailpipe that is a little bit of a long travel for that air pressure to get down there so another possibility is you get underneath the rig you take the upstream air fuel sensor or o2 sensor out before the catalytic converter and then maybe use a listening device like that air tube from the test kit and see if you could hear air pressure coming out through the exhaust another thing you could do if you could want to determine if it’s a bad head gasket or maybe a cracked head you can take off the radiator cap you look into the top of the radiator and if you see bubbles coming up that means that the air pressure has gotten into the cooling channels and it’s causing air pressure to go into the cooling system and so if you see air bubbles there that means you have an either head gasket leak or you have a cracked head all right so we’re all done with this job for Greg it didn’t produce any answers his cylinder looks like it’s fine for you as the viewing audience you now learn how you can perform a leak down test on one of your cylinders and the logical progression of things you probably did a compression test and then you found one of your cylinders was really low and had a bad compression number compared to the other ones the next step is you want to figure out where is that pressure going so you get yourself a leak down tester like this one for MOTC and I’ll put a link in the video description for this one so you can buy this one too if you decide you want to buy this one you use the procedure that we showed you to figure out that you’re a top dead center on the compression stroke for that cylinder you put in your hose you hook up air pressure to the tester and then you hook up the nozzle into the right side of the tester and then you figure out how much pressure you’re losing in that cylinder if you found that you’re losing a significant amount of pressure then you want to figure out where that pressure is going like I said you can take off the oil filler count or you can pull the oil dipstick and you can listen up those two spots to determine if air pressure is getting past worn piston rings or past worn cylinder walls if there’s no air pressure leaking there then you can check at the throttle body and listen for air pressure to see maybe you have a bad valve seat or bad intake belt and then you can check at the exhaust pipe or you can pull out one of your o2 sensors and listen there to see if you have a bad valve seat for the exhaust belt or a bad exhaust valve finally you can take your radiator cap off and you can see if bubbles are coming up letting you know you have a blown head gasket or you have a cracked head with all that said we thank you for watching Toyota time with Timmy the tool man and Sean and special returning gas Greg thank you for watching thank you for subscribing if you have any questions or comments do that below take care bye bye sick mods and sick leak down tests.
Bought this to test an engine that was creating excessive crankcase pressure. Was told by Dealer the engine needed replacing or repair. Found the compression and leak-down to be very good. So engine appeared to be OK. Found a cracked hose on the brake booster causing the excessive crankcase pressure. This was because the camshaft driven vacuum pump for the booster exhausts into the crankcase. Fixed the hose (replaced) and problem solved. Having this tool to help diagnose the issue saved me 1000’s of dollars. Excellent tool to confirm the overall condition of an engine. This would be a great tool to check out a used car if one could take it home and test leak-down. No issues with the OTC 5609 Cylinder Leakage Tester. Thanks.
Put your piston top dead center on compression stroke or loosen rocker arms. put 100 psi into cylinder by turning valve on tester. The second valve will show maintained pressure, hopefully 99 or 100 psi even cold. If you test a cylinder that is bad. The second gauge will show less pressure. When i tested my back cylinder, i could hear the antifreeze bubbling. Which told me i most likely had a blown head gasket or cracked head. My second gauge showed 96 psi. Put in a new head gasket and retested. Showed 100 psi. I then knew i had fixed the right part.
Worked flawlessly. I had an old Harbor Freight leak down tester I used for a couple years. It worked okay, but it couldn’t hold up to higher pressure. This worked and held 100psi no problem. I wanted to test my engine in my Evo before I threw in a lager turbo, and this made it an easy job. Feels solid and varies spark plug connectors that will fit just about all engines, all in a solid blow molded case. OTC is a great trusted brand with a good build quality and good warranty. I suspect this will last me many years.
This fuel pressure tester diagnoses drivability problems caused by poor fuel pressure. It is designed for fuel injected systems. It features a relief button and a 6-ft hose to safely dispose of gasoline without disconnecting the gauge.
It also works on the throttle body injection with a threaded connection at the fuel filter or throttle body. It is 2½” gauge with 0-100 psi/0-700 kPa scales for accurate measurements.
The gauge resolution is not optimal for carburetor applications and it does not include any carburetor adapters. To test fuel pressure on carbureted engines, Actron CP7803 Vacuum and Fuel Pressure Tester Kit can be used.
Great tester. I went to one of the popular auto stores to get a rental and I like this one better. The loaner leaked no matter what I tried and was giving me false readings. This is easy to read and has a nice long hose. Nice price as well. My only complaint would be that it does not come in a hard-shell case. It comes with a cheap flat pouch that I find almost impossible to get all the attachments and user manual back in. I have a large lower drawer in my tool chest that I keep all my sensitive testing equipment in so I just carefully toss it in there after use. Would recommend.
It’s thing is to tell you how much fuel pressure you have. It worked but I lost that stupid black cap that does on the nipple. It was a huge pain finding a replacement, and then 6 months later I found the original in my glove compartment, doh. It turned out I had a bad fuel regulator, but this at least help me decide not to replace my fuel pump for no reason. At least I think that’s what I used it for.
This is a good guage for the home mechanic. Kit has adapters for just about any vehicle out, you can even splice into a rubber fuel line if the fuel rail adapter you need isn’t in the kit. My particular vehicle is a Lexus RX300 which is basically a V6 toyota with Lexus decals, this kit came with the proper banjo bolt adapter and sealing washers for me to do the pressure test. The guage is encased in rubber so you can lay it face down on the windshield and check the pressures from inside the vehicle without it sliding down the windshield. The guage also has a pressure relief button which is nice to have when your done with your testing. Two things I would want you to do before using the guage for the first time. 1 remove the black test line atached to the guage and wrap the threads in teflon tape. It’s worth 25 seconds of your time to prevent a leak. 2 At the other end of the same black line is a brass fitting, look inside it and you will see a rubber o-ring give it a shot of WD-40. It’s worth another 5 seconds of your time. The extra 30 seconds of prep Gave me a leak free test first use. Happy testing.
OTC’s 5630 Fuel Pressure Test Kit quickly and easily locates any malfunctioning fuel system component – fuel filters, pressure regulators, fuel lines, and fuel pumps – without the need to remove it from the vehicle.
The large, easy to read gauge features an impact-resistant rubber encased housing and reads 0-100 psi, 0-700 kPa. Kit features high-quality solid brass fittings, hose, and tubing for long-lasting performance and reliability.
Convenient pressure relief valve allows for safe, clean testing. Quickly and easily locate any malfunctioning fuel system components, including fuel filters, pressure regulators, fuel lines, and fuel pumps without removing it from the vehicle.
I suspected my fuel pump was bad in my Mustang due to a crank and no start situation. I was faced with having to have it towed to a shop and paying a diagnostic fee plus repairs and labor. Instead I sprang for this gauge and followed the instructions included, which are very straight forward. Ruled out other issues that cause a fuel pump to fail (looking on Mustang Forums and U Tube). The gauge test showed no pressure and I replaced the fuel pump. Cranks and runs beautifully with great fuel pressure. I figure what I save in repair costs more than offset the price of this gauge. The gauge is well made. I’ve see higher end gauges, but for the DIY’er it is all you need.
I needed a simple gauge to check fuel pressure on a GM 5.7 MPI engine. This gauge worked great. It had the adapter I needed for the low pressure pump as well as the correct size for the fuel rail. The bleed off hose was essential as i was doing this in a boat and you do not want fuel spills. siply connect, bleed fuel into the line to the gauge ( you do not want air in the line) and read pressure. Feels solid. I had no leaks. It does not include a case, but I did not need one.
I use this now for my Jeep and other friends Jeeps. It is as advertised no more no less so if your a professional mechanic may no meet your expectations…? then again it might? For a weekend warrior it is more than enough. It seems well made and has worked perfect every time I have used it so far. I like the fact the hose is long enough to let pressure off before unhooking the gauge and spill gas safely away from the engine into a jar. I stick the hose into my lawn mower gas can to release the gas into so I don’t have to clean up anything or have extra trash. The numbers for us older peeps on the gauge are easy to see and read and are printed clearly. Cannot say yet how it last since I have not had it that long, but it appears to be well made enough to last the life of my old heep,… and maybe even me? (: All and all I recommend this to anyone.
OTC’s 5605 Deluxe Compression Tester Kit offers a complete package for compression testing on gasoline engines and comes complete with standard and specialty adapters. In addition to more common adapters, this versatile kit includes the deep well connector used on recessed plug well style heads and the Ford Triton engine adapter using 16 mm thread plugs.
All metal components feature a corrosion-resistant nickel-plated finish. Adapters work on both flat and tapered seat plugs. Extra-long 25″ flex hose gauge assembly with quick coupler allows easy viewing out of cluttered engine compartments. 2-1/2″ gauge features chrome bezel and rugged protective outer boot.
Dual scale gauge reads 0-300 psi and 0-2100 kPa. Adapters: 8″ deep well-14mm connector, 5″ flex Ford Triton 16mm adapter, 12″ flex-14mm standard reach, 12″ flex-14mm long reach, and 10mm, 12mm, and 18mm thread adapters. Rugged blow-molded hard case with removable lid keeps kit components contained and organized when not in use. Includes repair parts kit.
We bought this for our auto repair shop to do cylinder compression tests. This is very professional and has superseded our expectations. This helped us detect bad valves on a 2010 dodge charger. Upon initial testing this helped our mechanic see that 3 valves were losing compression. Then with the customer’s approval for a tear down, it was confirmed that those 3 valves were in deed not seating correctly due to carbon build up. The car had been performing badly with symptoms of running rough at idle and at high speeds. This tool was awesome in helping to pinpoint the problem quickly and accurately I recommend this to all mechanics who do heavy engine work as you will not be disappointed in this piece of equipment!
Decided on the deluxe model. The T-handle adapter fit right into the spark plug hole on my Stihl chainsaw. Spark plug holes can be recessed, so it was super easy to thread the hardline adapter in hole. Compression shows 150psi. No problems with sealing. Hand tighten the adapters when threading, don’t use a wrench. Comes with a high quality protective storage case. Kit has already paid for itself from one test. Thank You otc.
Same set sold on MAC and Matco trucks. I have only this set with no additional adapters and have always had exactly what I need, right here. I don’t do too much with diesels, so I can’t speak for the coverage there. But for regular automotive use, this is all you need. OTC is hit and miss with quality, but this set is spot on. Plus you can warranty or replace the individual pieces with your MAC or Matco dealers as you need them. My coworker has the same MAC set that he paid over $200 for. LOL, He just doesn’t understand. I compared them side by side, and he was still not convinced. Highly recommended for any tech or home mechanic.
OTC’s 5606 Compression Tester Kit is ideal for use on all types of gasoline engines including domestic, import, motorcycle, marine, and small engines. Professional quality, dual scale 2-1/2 inch diameter gauge reads 0-300 psi and 0-2100 kPa and features a chrome bezel, rugged protective outer boot, and zero adjust feature.
This Compression Tester Kit includes 12″ flex 14mm standard, 12″ flex 14mm long reach, and 10mm, 12mm, and 18mm thread adapters – adapters work on both flat and tapered seat plugs.
Extra-long 25″ flex hose gauge assembly with quick coupler allows easy viewing out of cluttered engine compartments. Corrosion-resistant nickel-plated finish protects metal components.
I bought this unit to test cylinder compression in my 2001 Buick LeSabre. It’s pretty easy to use and seems to give accurate readings. You just disconnect the fuel injector connectors so there is no electrical current to power them, disconnect the ignition control module, so there is no spark to the spark plugs, remove all the spark plugs from the cylinder heads, screw in the compression tool BY HAND (DO NOT USE TOOLS TO TIGHTEN THE COMPRESSION TESTER INTO THE CYLINDER HEAD THREADS!!) into a cylinder, have someone crank the engine while you check the compression rating on the tool, let the engine crank a few times, then let it rest. Do this until you don’t see the needle on the gauge go any higher. Write down each compression rating on a piece of paper. Look at all the compression ratings. They should be within 15% of each other. Take your highest compression from your recordings and multiply it by .15. Subtract that sum from your highest rating and that is your lowest possible compression. Meaning if any of your cylinders are lower than your lowest possible compression, that is your problem. OTC has never failed me as far as any tools I’ve bought by them and I give this tool 5 stars for it’s accuracy and ease of use.
Compression tester worked perfect, only maybe 2psi off from my neighbors calibrated Mac Tools tester. Hose extensions can be used to fill cylinders with air in order to hold valves closed so you can replace the valve springs/seals which I did – you just have to use the supplied valve stem removal tool to remove the valve on the end of the hose. As a 43yr old true backyard mechanic and handyman I know a quality tool when I see it, and this is it.
Really easy to use. I think this is easier to use than the ones that come with just a cable attached to the gauge because you can screw on the hose easily without having to worry about space requirements with the gauge and worry about hitting anything. Just screw on the hose, then quick attach the gauge, and start your reading. I was not able to test it’s accuracy against other gauges but I was assured it was accurate by a mechanic.
The new and improved ABN Comprehensive Universal Fuel Pressure Tester Master Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit is a complete fuel test gauge package that quickly tests the fuel pump pressure on injector systems.
Its high-quality fuel pressure gauge hose replacements have been improved with implanted fiber; Fitted with quick coupling system and pressure release valve fitting with a long drain hose to prevent inadvertent discharge of fuel while testing and to allow for the safe recovery of fuel; Fuel injection pressure gauge displays reading 0-100 PSI and 0 to 7 Bar.
The atomotive fuel pressure test kit adapters fuel gauge kit has all necessary fittings to attach to a pressurized system; Will work on any vehicle as long as it has a Schrader test port fuel injection system or as long as you can splice an inline connection; Recommended for older low-pressure systems with mechanical fuel pumps; Not compatible with Bosch, CIS-Jetronic, or GM throttle body systems.
Hello friends, it’s a a little bit of you there i got this in the mail yesterday it’s you call it the first unboxing that i’ll be doing on on youtube there yeah i ordered this so not even a week ago when the received it it’s well i hope it’ll be the cure to a problem say refreshed an engine to put in my truck but really by the symptoms and by I’m not a mechanic by the way but by my diagnosis it could be related to fuel problem sure problems are kind of kind of hit miss type of thing and the best tool one can have especially with the like the trucks of like minder need a freaking gauging and read the pressure and oh my god they got this yeah this comes from who’s that come from anyway hey I don’t remember ah I can’t read it anyway sack so they got this package in a way that traffic normal man can’t get into it but have this hocus-pocus here we go my god auto body now Oh auto body mmm now ABN fuel injection pressure test oh let’s make this quick I got art of things I want to talk to use a boat I’ve been warned there that’s X my videos are too long not good so I gotta make friggin jumping whoo first problem you can’t open it who this looks like that something like Princess auto call to eat I don’t know boy wrong side switch it around well well it’s got a lot of fittings this is this this is what I need that’s right here with dash shredder adopter there at the end this is all that junk I don’t know what they had some spare parts and they just put it in here but this is what I need so uh anyways i’ll be making a video probably when i do that i checked the fuel pressure ah really what I’d like I put an extension on this and I’ll Drive the booger on the road now check the pressure as I go in and then I’ll know exactly what’s going on because it’s it’s kind of a missing at some point higher rpm I had some videos that I checked on the net anyways this is a tool i need cheap yeah i got that a Alma’s amazon and the cheap and it does a job I don’t know I know that some guy told me princess auto had one but it’s a one-time deal so I’m hoping this will last maybe one or two times probably not more than that by that price I paid ah anyways so I guess I’m exceeding the time limit on this video so I better just sign off with youse guys and we’ll get you later the next one I’ll be doing you don’t have not something on these tubes here ah here they’re made by a luminous but they’re sold at costco bah anyways how all chewin in the leader with that see ya.
Just wanted to show how to make this kit work on fuel rails with a schrader valve. If you look at the hose and fitting connected to the actual fuel pressure gauge there is a a built in adjustable schrader valve on the end (refer to the picture). It ships to you turned completely down. If you take a tire valve remover and rotate the valve counter clock wise it will adjust the valve outward so that it can depress the valve on the fuel rail. These work perfect on GM and other schrader valve fuel rails once you have adjusted it out. Hope it helps.
This is a full set of fuel pressure test tool, in its blow molded case. It comes with all the necessary parts needed to test just about every car made. After buying and receiving it, I was able to check it out and put it to its test. It worked as expected, gave me a clear and to the point pressure reading. It also held the pressure test for over 5 minutes. Which is excellent, since most important fuel pressure test is that. For the pump to be able to hold its pressure for 5 minutes or more. So, in short. If your looking to buy one? ABN has proven to be a serious contender. With its quality parts and price, it will win you over. You can’t/won’t find a better deal for its price. Take it from me, I’ve been in the business, for over 35 years. And still going! This test kit makes it easy for me and the boys at my shop to work and earn our living.
Initially the gauge read 0 pressure on my fuel line, because the Schrader valve stem at the end of the gauge hose was screwed all the way in and wouldn’t reach the Schrader valve stem on the fuel rail of my Jeep Grand Cherokee. I unscrewed the valve stem from the end of the gauge hose using needle nose pliers until it came off. Then I put in it back in just 2 or 3 full turns, and voila, it worked perfectly, 49 psi, the exact spec for the Jeep. While it does not have a fuel relief hose, a shop towel wrapped around the valve works just fine.
The BETOOLL Fuel Injector Pressure Tester Kit included adapters, hoses, and fittings cover all fuel injection systems and most cars and trucks worldwide! It has a Fuel Injection Pump Pressure / Oil Combustion Spraying Pressure Gauge Teste.
This tester Designed for repeated use with high-quality materials for maximum durability. It is a money-saving tool & saves hundreds of dollars on fuel injection tester kit. It’s Measuring range is 0-140psi (0-10 bar).
The gauge will hold pressure values and has a pressure release valve with drain hose for safe fuel recovery. Components of this tester made of high-quality Brass, rugged and long-lasting.
Well, I’ll try to make this short and sweet. I used this Betooll fuel injector pump pressure tester for the first time to check out my father’s 1995 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale last week Friday. You know, I didn’t even have to use any of the other fittings that came with the fuel pressure tester kit as there was absolutely no need to. In fact, all that I had to do was to open the case, take out the fuel pressure tester, and screw the attached connector onto the fuel rail. Afterwards, I simply turned the ignition key to the ‘ON’ position, and then monitored the pump pressure gauge. Seeing that the fuel pump was delivering 46 PSI, my father’s car obviously didn’t have a fuel problem which was all that I needed to know. What I can tell you was that this must have been a very precision made pump pressure tester as there were no leaks or mess anywhere. It was then a simple matter of activating the pressure release valve on the gauge which conveniently discharged any remaining gas into a small tin can that was lying around nearby. Even then, there was only a trickle of gas that actually made its way into the tin can which quickly evaporated out. So, after disconnecting the fuel pressure tester from the fuel rail, I then reconnected the fuel rail cap. Well, so now you know. This looks like a real winner to me folks!
Worked great! All the adapters it came with are a plus. After almost going crazy trying to figure out why my car wouldn’t start (It was getting fuel, spark, air and the timing was correct). I bought this on a hunch. Using this I found out the fuel pressure was there but really low after the fuel pump. Pull the pump out and saw that it had a bad hose in the tank. This product saved my insanity.
One thing I have learned is that while you don’t need the most expensive tools, you do need tools that will actually get the job done. The first fuel pressure tester gauge I bought was from Harbor Freight. I can recommend a lot of Pittsburgh things, but that ain’t one of them. It fit nicely enough where I needed it to, but it leaked terribly from inside the gauge and failed. Strike one. Then I bought a BlueDriver brand gauge. Loved their bluetooth OB2 scan tool. Hated their fuel pressure tester. It had an adjustable nozzle on the fuel line instead of multiple adapters. Well, that adjustable nozzle didn’t seal properly against any fuel port valve I tried it on. Leaked everywhere. Strike two.
Thankfully, I finally got it right on the third try. I used the tester for a ’99 Saturn SL2 which ultimately required an adjustable nozzle adapter to fit on the port. This one sealed successfully, as the adjustable design worked as intended and I could definitively compare where the BlueDriver one failed. The BETOOLL worked perfectly, didn’t leak, and I got a nice, clean PSI reading. You can buy an inexpensive kit, but it has to get the job done. I went with a questionable brand and an untested brand, and those didn’t cut it. So do yourself a favor and invest in this tool, because it will actually get the job done.
Engine compression tester with long flex hose and adapters eliminate the need to remove secondary equipment such as power brakes, steering, air conditioning and manifold components.
Shankly compression tester is compatible with domestic and imported cars and trucks with gasoline engines. Shankly’s diesel compression tester serves as a dependable engine compression tester for mechanics.
The compression gauge set includes a 14mm / 18mm solid short adapter, 14mm/18mm long flexible adapter and 14mm long reach adapter. With a professional compression gauge, Shankly’s cylinder compression tester ensures accurate and reliable readings. An ideal tool for compression tester small engine, medium or large engines.
Okay, to check compression with the Shankly compression tool you remove the spark plug and thread the the connector into the engine where the spark plug came out you connected properly now we’re going to check compression it shows about a hundred pounds of compression which is normal for a cold Chevy engine video shopping network and Amazon affiliate to see this product on Amazon click the link in the video description below you’ll be able to see current pricing product reviews and any special deals desktop users should see the Amazon quick link below the video mobile users will need to click the little down arrow below the video first.
I had originally bought a compression tester from Harbor Freight and despite their recent changes to better the quality of the products in their store, their compression tester said a chainsaw engine I was working on only had 20% compression. I knew it would be low but even a worn out engine I wouldn’t expect that low unless something was majorly wrong with it. I returned it and bought this one for a whopping 3 dollars more and holy crap… This is a good professional quality one without the professional price. The compression 88% with this one. Alright. That’s a lot more believable and accurate. Definitely recommend this product.
You can spend less on a compression tester, and you can spend more, but this unit hits the sweet spot when it comes to quality, functionality, and price. It has the adapters that most people will need, an extension hose for when the plugs are deep in the engine compartment, and best of all, a decent case to keep everything in. The paper label doesn’t bother me; it’s a good place to write your name, so you can spot it in your friend’s shop after he’s borrowed it :-). And if you do need an exotic plug adapter in the future, the quick disconnect unit on this unit makes it simple to integrate.
Decent gauge wrapped in cheap but OK rubber. Hoses and attachments seem well made. Using this to diagnose problems with our jet ski. The included hoses, fittings and adapters were all the correct sizes we needed, and all were “O” ring sealed. The kit is well laid out and all the included parts all have their own spot in the case. Each piece is securely held in place, so your stuff wont be in a jumbled mess when you open it. For the price, I am very pleased with this kit. Arrived well packed as well.
INNOVA Equus 3640 Fuel Injection Pressure Tester form INNOVA has large, easy-to-read 2″ dial face with 0-100 PSI scale. It has a durable 16″ gauge hose and 6-foot bleed-off hose with solid brass fittings.
This Fuel Injection Pressure Tester includes Ford, GM and Chrysler test adapters and a “Tee” adapter for import vehicles. This tester helps identify and diagnose low fuel pressure, a faulty fuel pressure regulator, the leaking injector(s), fuel leaks and/or clogged fuel filters.
INNOVA Equus 3640 Fuel Injection Pressure Tester helps identify and diagnose low fuel pressure, a faulty fuel pressure regulator, leaking injectors, fuel leaks, and clogged fuel filters
Thought I was facing a $700 plus bill to replace a fuel pressure regulator and/or fuel pump on a 5.7L Vortec with 253,000 miles on it. Vehicle idled smoothly, but did have an occasional strong hesitation. These two conditions are somewhat contradictory so I thought check the fuel pressure as the dealership originally proposed (and they wanted to replace all the injectors). Was I shocked when the turn “key on” consistently showed 63 psi and running 57 psi. With engine off it held the pressure over 55 psi for over 15 minutes, no vacuum leak here. Cleaned the throttle plate/body and immediately saw an improvement per the scanner of the throttle position. Replaced the MAP sensor, cleaned the Mass Air Flow and used two bottles of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner and my Vortec started running like new. The moral here is for the price and the exceptional quality of the tool you just might save yourself a lot of money. For the price and the quality of the tool, if you are suspicious of a fuel pressure issue you can’t go wrong with the Equus 3640.
Checking vacuum on my high performance engine. I have a racing carburetor that uses a power valve in place of a choke. The power valve setting is critical for balanced driving, The correct power valve setting is 1/2 the vacuum at the manifold. So a precise reading is necessary. This tester is not only accurate, but it is easy to use and easy to read. Comes with a variety of adapters to fit any engine that uses a carburetor.
For occasional use – this seems like it will do just fine – comes with adapters, hoses, complete instructions, etc. Worth even one time use compared to taking vehicle to shop (or misdiagnosing fuel pump). (I put 5 stars for accuracy, however that’s my guess – basically your pump/pressure regulator are within spec, or not. +/- a pound or two not critical.
Test gasoline fuel pump pressure on most fuel injection equipped vehicles (Except for CIS-Jetronic, Bosch and GM throttle body systems). Components of this tester fitted with a quick coupling system and safety valve to prevent inadvertent discharge of fuel under pressure.
This comprehensive kit of adaptors and fittings for modern Schrader test-port fuel injection systems. It’s gauge calibrated from 0 – 150 PSI (0-10 bar). This tester kit includes assorted hoses with brass fittings, brass fittings, and steel clamps to work on most vehicles.
Yep, so today’s video I bought mine frame down yeah you and your frame means yeah like you’re not goodbye okay we get closer to the microphone is right here the farther back you get the worse the closer mic sounds okay are you ready yeah so today’s video I bought the cheapest fuel injection pressure tester on Amazon I have a really high quality one I got a $550 one this one is like $14 I think with shipping and everything so I’m going to open it I’m gonna try it out and we’re gonna test it to see if it’s the same quality or does the same thing as my $550 cell okay by the way James Tara is behind the camera so the forge mech fuel injection pressure test kit tu1 112 there will be a link down here in the description if you guys want to buy this so you get the pressure gauge – these clamps you get these little adapters for different things this is uh I guess you stick that into the hose in it and you can put your tester on the end that way you want like a Deadhead a pump or something like that you’ve got your inline tee where you can test inline pressure you’ve got your standard your fat straight about one you got your vehicle’s so we’re gonna pull it out alright so we got the gauge hooked up I had a little problem with the Quick Connect it was kind of a pain in the butt but our gauge is set easy do me a favor go over to the inside the truck it just turn the key on so what we’re gonna do is where it turned the key on soon as he turns the key on that will energize the fuel pump I’m gonna pressurize this up I’ll see what our fuel pressure is all right so we’ve hopped up to about 34 something like that so what I’ll do so if I press this button right here so I’m going to check to make sure does this pump is able to put out enough volume and pressure watch out buddy is feel gonna go right there does it make any any difference at all so it’s showing we have 30 psi all right it’s actually a little low it’s a little below spec I think spec is like 45 everybody you turn it off and before we disconnect the fuel injection pressure tester you hit that button that depressurize the line so we can actually take the fuel gauge off so I’ll take this off I’ll rig up my snap-on and we’ll see if it reads the same all right so like I’m a snap-on gauge hooked up all right buddy and right on 30 okay buddy see ya yes right on the money so the $12 one just as accurate as the $550 one so if you do need to check your fuel pressure or check a customer’s feel pressure or something like that generally you can find your fuel injectors find a fuel rail look down the fuel rail and you’ll find a Schrader valve that’s what I am that Valve that I connected to but usually be a black plastic cap on it I don’t know am on debt I probably left it off last time I was testing it as far as accuracy there’s no difference from this one to that one over there yeah I mean oh this is a master snap-on kit now I have this kit in a ammo crate because the box that they send that thing in its massive I mean for that fuel injection it doesn’t fit in any of my pull boxes in a truck takes up a whole lot of room this doesn’t take up a lot of room and it’s actually sealed so that’s why I have it in there but um as far as the actual differences one thing is I had a little trouble getting this this hose on the Schrader valve and I had a lot of trouble getting this quick-connect on I didn’t have any trouble at all getting a snap-on one to connect actual hose itself just has this little kind of a rinky-dink kind of has a rinky-dink little Schrader valve in there and I don’t know if that’s gonna last or not get might you know that little valve or and the snap-on one you know the actual connector itself you know has a large little dill on it and the Schrader valves a little different something the other difference is the host itself the rubber hose on this is kind of stiff on both of these it’s a little hard to finagle that hose even brand-new that hose is really really loose and supple makes it just a little bit easier other than that really there’s not a whole lot of differences here guys I mean this is like a flex at 14 bucks there’d be a link right here and then there’s a snap on the master one so I think this would be a really good set you know if you’re kind of a weekend warrior you’re just getting started you need something to get you by for now if you’re a mechanic fantastic set to start up you know a Father’s Day present something like that nothing wrong with this setup at all I bought the $550 one because I’m a professional mechanic I work on automotive diesel all kinds of stuff so I actually need all of these adapters and stuff that come with it now I don’t use most of them all the time but occasionally there will be something that I need to tap into that I need a certain adapter to test and then usually on these I have everything Rock and hook it up to my my pressure tester so the $550 now step one does sell a cheaper version kind of comparable with that one but it’s still you know 200 bucks or something like that so the way I have this set up in here I have this I’ve got this ammo can set up and if the this little deal is just for tackle for lures and stuff like that and I’ve got this dude goes in there pretty much it and then I’ve got a nice sealed sealed box is still from the weather your soap and water and everything so I like my setup but you know if I was first start now this has to be the way I wash I should have gone now the first one that I bought was like a star product or something they still make stuff but this is dirt cheap man and when you’re very you’re first starting off it’s better to buy something like this for 14 bucks or buy two of them so you got a backup then it is to spit a whole bunch of money on a $550 one on this down a toll truck or something because you can pay cash for this relatively easily you’re not gonna be able to pay cash for this but just starting off you’re gonna use this one exclusively mainly these two lines and that’s usually what I use a mine is those two connections to spend your money on other stuff that you need when you first start out you know like screwdrivers sockets wrenches stuff like that I mean this you’re not gonna be you’re not gonna use your fuel injection pressure test your all that much not saying you don’t but it’s not gonna be a daily occurrence like the other tools so I guess my my thumbs up guys you know like I said it is what it is it’s a cheat dirt cheat the absolute cheapest fuel pressure tester so the absolute you’ll pressure tester on Amazon that I could find let me rephrase that this isn’t the cheapest one this is the one that actually came with a couple of other adapters they make a cheaper one that’s like eight dollars or something like that but it just comes with the gauge and one fitting and that’s it opted to get this one for 14 bucks because it comes with two fittings so what’s going to happen eventually on this truck I think I’m going to pull the bed off this truck or actually were going to pull the cab the engine transmission off this truck part the front end out and Chuck you’re not going to make a trailer out of the rear end of it and I’m probably going to keep the master fuel pressure tester in the truck and I’ll keep this into my shop though I’ve got two tool sets I’m starting to kind of develop tool sets on there other than that man yeah I mean highly recommended it passes so I’m going to start doing this I’m gonna start grabbing tools like this like my next one I’m gonna get is probably you gotta stop moving to camera like this okay so the next one I’m gonna get is probably gonna be a compression tester and then I still under like down test I’ll get the cheapest one on Amazon I’ll review it I’ll show it next to my expensive one see how accurate it is see if it’s worth it or not and in this case it is if you liked this video hit the like button comment subscribe and pick something this is what 300 dollars gets you yeah whatever you do keep focusing on that.
Considerations for Buying the Best Fuel Pressure Tester in 2020
The fuel pressure tester not only helps in getting rid of the excretion of your sweats but also makes your journey easy and enjoyable. Designed with the fuel-injected system, it measures the pressure of the fuel in any circumstances; either your engine is off or on. Following are some important points that you must consider before buying:
(1). Super testing capability:
Make sure that your fuel pressure tester must be capable of super testing. It must be designed for the fuel-injected systems and tests the fuel pressure of your vehicle effectively; either car or truck. Also, it must have the adapters to get adjusted for most of the domestic works and helps you in importing the uses without any trouble. You must make sure that your tester comes with the handy pouch that can store and protect the adapter and gauge and also make you not to worry about where the necessary tools to keep. It must have the ability to test your engine while it is either off or on. Also, the material of your product must be of high-quality and also make sure that your vehicle is nicely fitting the threading. Also, it must have the feature of quick testing of the malfunctioning of the components which are made up of brass usually. Furthermore, it must permit you to measure the pressure of the fuel system in your vehicle safely and easily.
(2). Solid case:
The tester kit must come with the case for gas-driven vehicles and also the 20 pieces of different tools. Also, consider the feature that it is a complete package for your fuel pressure tester. Also, it must have an adapter that is important so that it can work efficiently with different vehicles. Not only it is easy to store the kit but also get quickly organized and must be portable so that they can be easily transported. With the availability of a bunch of adapters, make sure that it works great with all kinds of vehicles. Also, make sure that your fuel pressure kit is easy to carry from one place to another and allow you to test the fuel pressure with ease and comfort. The fitting of the kit must be made up of the high – quality material such as brass. To easily inspect if there is any leak or not, your product must have piston rings, exhaust valves and head gaskets in the fuel pressure kit.
(3). Flex hoses:
Your product must consist of the handy hose which must be long for about 6 feet to provide you with the flexible work without bothering you. The long hose can help you in preventing the unusual discharge of fuel when the tester is measuring the pressure of the vehicle. Your product must have the superpower of inspecting the malfunctioning of the components of the fuel system in your vehicle. It must be capable of testing the fuel filter, fuel lines, pressure regulators and fuel pumps quickly and efficiently. You must ensure that the hose in your tester must be made up of the high – quality material. Also, it must have the feature of quick testing of the malfunctioning of the components.
(4). Easily readable gauge:
For the accurate measurements, it must also consist of the gauge for about two – and – a half-inch in size. Reading of the digits on the tester must be easily visible like crystal clear. Also, it must have dual – scale gauge which can measure the pressure up to 140 PSI which is a good range. The gauge must be large enough that it is easy for you to read the reading. Also, make sure that the gauge in your product has a resistance rubber. It must have the universal design so that the fuel injection system is easily covered by the hoses, adapters, and fitting of the kits. Also, the kit must be of high quality which allows you to use it repeatedly and save your money in a huge amount without spending much on the fuel system. Also, make sure that it is not hard for you to read the reading of the pressure measured by the tester.
(5). Highly durable:
The case of your high – quality pressure tester must come with a durable case and it must give you the satisfaction after the use because you can easily check that your pump is inconsistent or not. To ensure the durability, your fuel pressure tester must consist of the high – quality tubing which can easily provide you high performance. The components of the kit of your product must be vacuum – operated so that it can quickly inspect if there is any problem in the fuel system of your vehicle.
FAQs on the Best Fuel Pressure Tester for 2020
What is the fuel pressure tester?
You need the tester to check the fuel pressure as you may not always consider your guesswork because in many cases it cannot be accurate. The wrong reading can sometimes lead to the damaging of your fuel pump by pushing it further. Also, you down not need any expert to check the fuel pressure of your vehicle and you can do it on your own as you do not need to acquire much knowledge about it. Also, you can save your money as you do not have to go to any workshop for the simple measurement of the fuel pressure of your vehicle. When the multiple fittings are connected to your vehicle and
How to use your fuel pressure tester?
The first and foremost step is that you must park your vehicle in a ventilated area for safety purposes as the fuel vapor is more dangerous than the liquid fuel due to its flammable nature and make sure that there you keep a fire extinguisher near you while testing the fuel pressure. It is designed in such a way that it consists of the gauge which is attached to the fuel hose and multiple fittings. Pop the hood when the engine of your vehicle is all cool. Remove the Schrader valve which you can find under a fuel rail or plastic engine cover. Attach the fuel tester with the fitting provided in your vehicle. For a leak-proof fitting, make sure that you have properly threaded. Turn on the ignition and check the reading of PSI displayed clearly on the gauge. Wait for any PSI drop which indicates you the leaking in the fuel system of your vehicle. If the reading remains constant after some time for about 5 – 10 minutes then it does not have any fuel related problem. Also, you need to understand the low, high or zero pressure shown in the gauge of your fuel pressure tester.
Why the fuel pressure gets dropped?
The reason behind the dropping of the fuel pressure is the weak pumps, so it is very important to take good care of the pump of your tester. Also, it can be due to the restricted lines, dirty filters and improper tank venting so it is important to check if the pump is in good condition or not. You can easily inspect that your fuel pump is properly working or not as it makes a sound when not in good condition. Also, it can indicate to you by sputtering or coughing that it is not in a good working scenario and there is some problem with it.
What is an average PSI of your fuel pressure tester?
Usually, the average PSI of the fuel pressure tester is considered to be 100- 140 as it a good range of measurement. Also, make sure that the pressure of the fuel system in your car should not be low, zero or high and must be in mild to provide you with high performance. With the low pressure, you may face some severe problems like it may be struggling for you to start your vehicle or stalling, hesitation or backfiring. With the high pressure of your tester, you may face some major issues which are due to the damaged regulator or a clogged fuel line. If the gauge reads the zero pressure, this means that the fuel pump is dead and would not get sufficient power. You must then ensure that the fuse of the fuel pump is in working condition. Make sure that the fuel pump does not deliver the fuel with high, low or zero pressure and understand the reading of the gauge properly.
How to inspect the fuel regulator of your vehicle?
There are many indicators that the regulator of your vehicle would indicate if they are not working properly. It is important to note that they are a very important tool of your pressure tester so you must take good care of it and replace it if it is not working. If there are any misfires, leaks or black smoke then you must change the regulator. To easily inspect if there is any leak or not, your product must have piston rings, exhaust valves and head gaskets in the fuel pressure kit. When there is misfires or decrease in the power, acceleration and the efficiency of fuel, then it indicates the failure of the regulator and will disturb the fuel pressure of the vehicle. Also, due to the fuel leak, the regulator of your vehicle is affected which leads to the emission of the black smoke from the tailpipe. And the fuel smell will tell you that the failure of the regulator is due to fuel leak which may adversely affect the performance of the engine in your car and also reduces the mpg. As the regulator is an essential component of your fuel pressure tester, you must take good care of it and if you find any fault then you must get your vehicle check by the technician near you and get it to replace.
How to Perform a Cylinder Compression Test?
Hey guys and welcome to another episode. Today in this video I’m going to show you how to do a cylinder compression test now it’s pretty self-explanatory with what I just said as to what I’m going to be doing so I’m going to be determining the amount of compression that’s not in each cylinder in my Mini Cooper today the purpose of this is to see if any cylinders are making more compression than normal and you’re making less and if there’s any anomalies between all four are they all consistent across the board is one of them wrong is one of them off is one of them more than normal with a compression tester like this you guys can determine that very easily once you have each spark plug removed from the car it’s literally a matter of just screwing this in trying to crank the car over and then you can be able to determine the health of your engine that’s enough talking for now let’s get into it to begin this procedure you need to get your car up to operating temperature so I turned on my Mini Cooper turn it on for about 15 minutes let it run and got the coolant up to the operating temperature now at this point we can start disassembling what we need to take off the car so that we can use our engine compression tester now next up what we’re going to do is we’re going to disconnect each and every one of the leads that are going to our spark plugs because we need to remove each and every one of them now make sure that once you take them out you remember where they go so this one here if I’m taking this out of cylinder one I’m going to be putting it back into cylinder one later so just twist it pull it up sometimes they might be a little stuck but just take it off and remove this now with this out we can get access to our spark plug that’s found inside the cylinder head in order to remove it you’re going to need an appropriate spark plug socket with an extension and your ratchet slide it down until you bite on and then take each and every one of these out so with this removed we’re going to set this aside and keep it together with the appropriate plug to use the compression tester kit we need to make it so that we’re not going to be getting any fuel into the cylinder while we’re trying to operate it so we need to disable the fuel system in some way the easiest way that I find to keep it so the fuel system does not get any fuel is to remove the fuel relay so that means that the fuel pump is not going to be able to turn on and supply the engine fuel the location of where the relay is will differ from car to car sometimes you’ll have it inside a fuse box found in your engine bay sometimes you’ll have it in a different location for my Mini Cooper I’m right now in the passenger side foot well of the car so your feet would rest right here and found on this side we have all of our fuses and relays for our vehicle now the fuel relay is right here and all that you do for it is pull it out just give it a little wiggle and it should come out nice and easily now I’m going to keep this here because I don’t want to lose this relay because if we can’t find this and put this back in after we test the car we won’t be able to turn the car on if we go ahead and open up our compression tester kit we’ll be able to find everything that we need inside of here so to get it so that we can install the compression tester on our car we need to use a hose and the appropriate adapter for your car now for my Mini Cooper I’m using an m12 adapter that’s going to thread onto this hose once we have that on we’re going to have a quick release fitting found on this end that attaches to here so once we have that installed we can then go ahead and see the compression reading for each cylinder now when you’re putting this little adapter piece onto the hose make sure that you only put it on hand tight do not use any tools to tighten this up because you have the possibility of damaging the threads and potentially breaking this tool in your engine so weird you can tighten that up by hand no tools and that’s a good to go so we can then go ahead and hand thread this piece into our cylinder head I’m going to start off with one side of the motor and I’m just going to put this down where the spark plug was installed and just thread this in so we can get a good reading so that’s it doesn’t have to be super tight and you can see that we have our quick release fitting right here we can then go ahead and attach the quick-release part to the threaded end of the hose that’s attached where the spark plug goes it snaps in place and then from there we’ll have a gauge and we’ll be able to determine how much compression each under minx before we get started we’re going to be taking a look at two different things so number one we’re going to take a look at the compression from at the moment we’re looking at cylinder four now I want to see if cylinder four is getting the proper amount of compression that the car was designed for so my Mini Cooper John Cooper Works motor was designed for a ten point zero to one compression so when I go inside the car to crank the motor I should try to see ten on our compression gauge found on the left now another thing that we’re going notice is we’re going to try and see even if you don’t know the compression of your motor when you have this compression tester in you can see if all of your cylinders are reading the same compression so cylinder four three two and one they all should read the same amount so say if your car is meant for eleven to one they all should read eleven to one if you see any kind of anomaly safe ones making eight to one you know that you’re going to be losing power on that cylinder and at that point something in the engine needs to be replaced more often than not it’s piston rings but hopefully everything should be okay with this so by just taking a look at cylinder 4 we can see that it’s between 120 and 150 so this right here is a pretty healthy cylinder number 4 now I’m going to take off the tester from cylinder 4 and move it to 3 and see if we get the exact same thing now it’s also not a half bad idea to hook up your trickle charger or your battery charger up to the car because the car isn’t going to be producing any power when you’re trying to crank it over it’s going to be really stressed especially if you’re going to be doing every single one of your cylinders to determine the health so I’ve got my battery charger set to low and hopefully that’s going to be enough to keep it so that my battery is going to have enough power to keep cranking the engine so we could disconnect the quick-release part right here and we can undo the hose that’s going to our spark plug or at least where it was now make sure that the entire thing comes out as you can see only the top part came out we’ve got to get the adapter that’s also found down there now on to cylinder number three taking a look at it now we can see that we’re slightly actually from what it looks like above spec so it looks like it’s a little bit over the 10 so this right here is a very healthy cylinder and it’s a little bit more healthy than the cylinder we were just looking at now I didn’t show you guys what happens when I disconnect it so when you take off the compression tester you want to relieve the pressure that’s found on the cylinder so just push in this little button and there you go so now it’s back down to zero now we can go ahead and take off the quick release and then move over the hose from cylinder three now to cylinder two now that’s not quite as high as I would like if when the looks of it it looks like it’s around eight now I’m going to give this another shot so I’m going to back this down to zero and then try it again so from the looks of it I’m making a little bit over eight to one compression so that actually seems to be pretty low now I’m going to finally take a look at cylinder number four as for the compression test that’s basically how we go ahead and perform it now once you’re done once you have all those readings we can take everything else then we can put our spark plugs back in our coil plugs back inside and then we have to go back into the interior of the car and reinstall our relay for fuel system now it’s super important is you have to make sure you tighten up each one of the spark plugs up to the proper manufacturer spec now you can find that out in your service manual for my Mini Cooper it’s 19 foot-pounds of torque so I’m just going to set up my torque wrench to 19 lock it in place and then tighten up each one so that it doesn’t strip and it doesn’t break your cylinder head as soon as you hear that click you know you’re done take that off and then go on to the next one once you go back inside your car to get it so that it turns on on the first try you want to grab your key insert it where it ever needs to go turn the car on but don’t turn the engine on so have it so the fuel system will prime and get the fuel rail pressurized once you’ve done that once take the key out do it two more times you should be able to hear your fuel pressure build up because the fuel pump is turning on take it out and then do it one more time and then once you do at this time you should be able to turn the car on and it should go for the first try before I end the video I want to give you guys a couple quick tips so when I was doing this when I attached my little adapter to the threaded part that goes into the engine where the spark plug was what I was taking this out this unthreaded from there and the adapter piece was stuck inside the engine now how do you take it in that situation there’s not enough room to put a socket on there and you can’t exactly get anything to pull it out now what I did to get it out is I used a little bit of Permatex blue thread Locker so this is the non permanent kind I put a little bit on the threads of here installed it in the engine so into the adapter piece I threaded it in like so I let it sit for about 5-10 minutes and then once once that was dried I was able to unscrew this and the entire thing came out together as one piece at that point because it’s not the permanent strength you can undo this and take it off once you guys go ahead and do this test and you’re kind of unsure as to what the actual dial means and what the number means on the box it gives you a lot of like outlined information as to what those numbers can mean so if you guys are doing this test the only way you’re going to get a good reading is you’re going to have to crank the motor over until the PSI gauge goes up and reaches the peak value so the cylinder compression test is going to read the peak amount of compression that the motor will make so if you do one quick crank over it’s probably going to bring you up to about 30 psi and then 60 and then 90 you have to make at least five cranks on the motor to determine the health of each cylinder if you do less than that you’re going to get an inaccurate reading when you’re doing this test if the needle is going to go up a little bit at a time and a little bit more and then it stops moving up and it’s not getting to the actual compression that your engine should be making what a possible problem could be in that situation is a sticking valve so that’s actually an issue that I have with my engine and I’m going to have to go ahead and take apart the intake side of the car and walnut blast the entire cylinder heads intake ports to clean out all the gum if you’re doing this test on a cylinder and they say this cylinder right here is making more compression than normal so say that this one here is make eleven to one where your engine is recommended and it’s designed to make ten to one compression what could be an issue in that situation is you could have carbon buildup found on the inside part of the engine so it could be anywhere on the back side of the valve it could be on the piston itself it could be on the cylinder walls it could be anywhere and because of that extra carbon it’s taking up space that the air would be occupying so that’s why you’re getting a higher than normal compression reading a cylinder compression tester will only tell you so much about your engine if you want to find out where say a leak is coming from or why the engine is making a different compression than another you need to get a cylinder leak down test and I’m going to show you guys in a future video once I have the video up I’ll have a link in the description box you guys can check that out and I’ll also have it in the outro but if you use a cylinder leak down test you can find out where the leak is coming from whether it be from your pistons whether it be from your intake whether it be your exhaust or even a head gasket it could be anything and this will tell you where it’s coming from if you guys want to pick up any of the stuff that I use today you guys can check the description box for links directing you to Amazon if you guys have any questions regarding the video holding down in the comment section below and be more than happy to help you guys thanks for watching I’ll catch a minute peace you.
If I wish, then I would personally recommend for OTC 5605 Deluxe Compression Tester Kit as it comes with the Extra-long 25″ flex hose which helps you in preventing the leakage of the fuel from the vehicle. Also, the kit provided with it is of high quality which allows you to use it repeatedly and save your money in huge amount without spending much on the fuel system
The listed fuel pressure tester will not only test the fuel pressure of the vehicles but also enhance your journey on the road. According to your wish, you can buy any of the listed fuel pressure testers.
Edmond Clark is a 34-year-old Blogger from California, USA. He is a Certified Market Research Professional (MRP) & a full-time blogger. His aim is to help the consumer to choose the best product from the market. Contact him for any of your queries.