It is an open secret that a steel storage shed is stronger than a wooden shed. Despite the fact that they are lightweight, metal sheds are tough enough to withstand harsh weather conditions. They can be used to store different items such as lawnmowers, bikes, garden tools, toys, cars, etc. Choosing the right shed can be a herculean task. Here is a review of the best metal sheds so as to make a good choice.
This metal shed is made of electro-galvanized steel. It is water-resistant. It is also resistant to rust and corrosion. It has a sloped roof to discourage the storage of rain water.
The sliding doors provide easy access in and out of the shed. It has a door opening of about 58 inches high. This metal shed is perfectly suitable for both indoor and outdoor storage purposes.
When it comes to assembly, the Arrow Hamlet Shed is super easy to assemble because the parts are already pre-cut and pre-drilled thereby reducing human labour.
This is a compact and economical storage system for your yard. With pad-lockable doors, you are sure that your items are safe and secure. The anchoring metal shed kit protects the shed from turbulent winds and damage. Anchoring kit is sold separately.
This multi-purpose storage shed has plenty of storage space. It comes with big door openings.
This shed is roomy enough to store a car. It is suitable for a workshop too. It is capable of withstanding heavy snow load.
It can withstand harsher weather conditions than other cheap metal sheds since it is made with hot-piped, electro-galvanized steel. It comes in the high-quality enamel paint finish.
The steel panel thickness is 15% thicker than the average steel. With 8 foot wide double re-inforced swing outdoors, you are sure of easy access to store valuable items. This is not just a metal shed; it is a building in itself.
Spacious enough – The shed is spacious enough to store your car by driving it in. Its 8 feet swinging door is wide enough to store heavy machinery and equipment including a boat.
100% galvanized steel – It is made with 100% Hot Dipped Galvanized (HDG) steel so as to effectively fight corrosion
High gable roof – The high gable roof alongside the steel trusses material make the head of the roof very roomy
Wide doors – The wide doors are of great benefit. They provide easy access to vehicles and other items
Weather-resistant – The shed is water-resistant and can also withstand bad weather conditions
When it comes to set up, building a cheap metal shed using the Arrow Oakbrook Storage Shed is all about convenience. The shed features a high gable roof that provides more storage space for your items.
There is enough headroom to store more with ease. Assembly is snappy because the parts are pre-drilled and pre-cut. The shed has wide door opening allowing you to access any needed item.
It is 769 cubic feet; this is enough to store such as lawnmower, bicycles, gardening tools and other overflowing items in your home.
The shed is attractive with alluring eggshell and taupe colour scheme to give your exterior an aesthetic look that you have always wanted. This shed is produced with top-notch materials. This is a great backyard storage system for anyone who needs an ideal metal shed.
Corrosive resistant – This shed is built with well treated electro-galvanized steel in order to perfectly resist corrosion
Water-resistant – The shed is water-resistant. It is protected against extreme weather conditions. It is also protected from rot, UV-rays and insects.
High gable roof – There is enough headroom since the roof is designed in high gable roof style
Pad-lockable door – The shed has pad-lockable sliding doors so as to ensure your valuable items are safe and secure
Ease of set up – This is a DIY assembly since the parts have been pre-cut and pre-drilled.
The Newburgh Storage Shed is powerfully made with low gable reinforced steel for great stability. The steel construction is made with electro-galvanized steel so as to resist rot, insects and bad weather.
It has a 60 inches tall wall for ease of accessing the shed. This Newburgh Shed is perfect for keeping items like lawnmowers, bicycles and other equipment.
The shed looks attractive with sliding doors for easy entry and exit. The shed’s door opening measures 4×7 inches wide and comes pad-lockable.
Assembling the shed is simple due to the fact that the parts are already pre-cut and pre-drilled by the manufacturer. It is important to note that the padlock and anchoring metal shed kit is sold separately.
EZEE Charcoal has a design that is two times stronger than other sheds. Making it a durable metal shed. It is made with electro-galvanized steel to resist rust.
This shed can serve as a mower shed. It is also impact-resistant thereby having less damage and dents. The Snap-It Quick Assembly system ensures the shed is set up in no time.
This helps to cut down on assembly time by 50%. The attractive swing door guarantees quick entry and exit to stored items. The gable roof enhances ventilation and air circulation.
The wall is 72 square feet tall providing more headroom to store taller items such as a tractor. It has charcoal and creamy trim finish making it more suitable for your exteriors. This is a well-modernized steel shed for utmost comfort.
Much stronger – The shed is twice stronger because the bonding process increases the thickness and the strength of the shed.
Swing doors – The doors are large enough making swing doors the best for easy entry and exit. Bulky items can easily be stored with large door opening.
Snap-It-Quick Assembly system – This system helps to reduce the time of assembly by 50% making assembly a lot easier. This means less labour.
Accessibility – Accessing your stored items has never been this easy. With a 65 inches wall height and 31 inches door width, accessibility won’t be an issue.
Create extra storage space for your belongings with the Outsunny Shed. This is a complete garden shed for your garden tools and other items.
The fact that this shed is affordable makes it more attractive. It is also durable since it is made from the finest galvanized steel material.
This offers more protection from hazards such as fire, moisture, insects and pests. It comes well painted to resist bad weather conditions and rust.
This shed is easy to set up because of its pre-fabricated parts helping to significantly cut down on labour. If you are looking to store your items safely and also add value to your exteriors; this shed is the real deal.
Spacious – This is a spacious storage system for your gardening tools, lawn equipment, bicycles and other items.
Built to last – The shed is built using the finest galvanized steel and durable polypropylene construction.
Sloped roof – With a sloped roof, the shed is able to prevent moisture and resist harsh weather.
Sliding doors – With double sliding doors, you can easily access your belongings in a jiffy.
Vents – There are four vents for easy airflow and lighting.
Buying guide for the best metal sheds in 2020
Except there is a plan for a store in your building plan before building your home, you may likely have overflowing items looking for where to keep them. This is when the consideration of having a metal shed comes in. Before you buy a shed, these are what you must take into consideration.
Sitting of the shed
Where to site the shed is usually something that is often overlooked. These are some rules to follow when you want to install a shed:
Site the shed close to the building – Typically, a shed is usually sited at the backyard. Ensure it is not too from the building. A shed that is closer to the building will be more useful because of its proximity to the building. The shed might be useless if it is too far away from the building.
Don’t site the shed at the bottom of a hill – Sitting a shed at the bottom of a hill won’t give it stability. It makes sense to site the shed on a level platform. Placing it on a hill may make it dangle.
Don’t place it in a shady place – There must be sunlight exposure and breeze wherever you want to place the shed so as to stop moisture from damaging your items.
Only look out for low-maintenance materials when purchasing a metal shed. This may be a bit costly at first but you will save a lot in the long run. Choose to make the exterior trim from PVC boards instead of using painted woods. This is because PVC boards are resistant to bugs and decay. Also, look out for steel doors because of their durability.
A strong foundation
A shed without a strong foundation won’t last. A cemented foundation is better than having a wooden foundation.
This is an important aspect when installing a shed. Proper ventilation reduces the chance of condensation.
This is also another important consideration. They are two types of doors – sliding and hinged doors. The sliding doors are easier to install and glide easily out of the way but require a lot of space to slide while hinged doors use less space and usually close more tightly than sliding doors.
FAQs on Best Metal Sheds in 2020
How to install metal roofing on a shed?
Choosing to use metal roofing for your shed is perhaps the best decision you would ever make. There are different types of metal roof. There is Rib Steel Roofing, Snap Lock Roof, Standing Seam Roof and Galvanized Metal. The choice is yours. Metal roofing comes with the following advantages:
They are fire resistant. Aside from that, they are also resistant to bad weather, rust and insects
Metal roofing is strong. It lasts longer than other roofing methods
It is lightweight.
It is capable of holding loads of snow and ice
It is 100% recyclable
Installing metal roofing on a shed is easy and simple. It doesn’t require too many technicalities but for most DIY lovers, installing metal roofing is not one of those things you can do alone. For those who are willing to give it a try, this is how to go about installing metal roofing over your shed.
Tools needed for metal roofing
Installing metal roofing requires some tools. Here is a list of the tools needed:
A cordless saw for wood cutting
Hammer, tape measure, metal shears, safety rope, anchor and harness belt
A good ladder
Roof stripping tools
Pre-measured and pre-cut metal roofing
Screws and nail
-Measuring the roofing and sketching a diagram
The first thing is to take measurement of your roofing from different angles. You need a precise measurement. Doing this means you have to make a diagram of the roof. Armed with the measurements, you can go to the supplier to get the roofing materials.
-Preparing your roof deck
The next thing is to prepare the roof deck for the installation of the metal roof. It makes sense to tear off the old roofing in order to better prepare the roof deck. This is also an opportunity for you to detect rotten woods due for replacement.
-Install the under-laying
Install the under-laying in a horizontal way with some overlapping and nail it accurately.
-Install the drip edge
It is time to install the drip edge
-Install the metal roofing
Lay the roofing metal and nail them one after the other. Use nails with caps or screws with strong washers.
Watch DIY Metal Roofing Installation, Basic How-To Video below:
What’s up guys, how’s it going in today’s video I’m working on a DIY metal roof this video here is just a DIY video so make sure you contact a professional before you start installing your metal roofing basically this video is just for entertainment purposes if you pick up some info on here that’s great I’m just a DIY ER so I’m not a roofer and basically I’m just sharing information in these videos it’s just entertainment and let’s get to our project so in this video here I’m not stripping the shingles I’m installing it with the shingles already on the roof nice thing about metal roofing is you can install a little bit at a time you can see here I have a say about 40% of the roof done and basically I installed that on the weekend so next weekend I can then continue on with the strapping here and I can then finish the whole roof there’s many ways to go about this now you can remove the shingles and then you can put down a membrane or you can put down tar paper and then you can strap it and put on your metal or you can put the metal right on to the plywood surface after you’ve put down an ash felt underlay or or a membrane or you can go right over top of the shingles now I’ve seen people do that and they say it works fine but I would rather strap on top of the shingles and then put the steel because this roof here you can see how bad the shingles are you can see they’re raised up in spots and I figure if you put the metal right on top of that it’s going to be really uneven also this gives you an air gap between the wood and the steel and that that’s a good idea as well alright so we’re installing the strapping here and you have to place it every 24 inches so from the top here you want to lay the first one straight down and then you can come down 24 off top here and come down 24 the next one 24 and at the bottom you might have to put a filler strip in because you want the screws on 24 inch so every panel is going to have the screws in here and then the next one here so what I’ve done is I’ve taken the ridge cap and it laid the ridge cap onto the top here and this gives me an idea of where I want to place my strapping because if we don’t have the strapping in the right spot of the ridge cap here then we’re gonna miss the screws so because we’re going to be driving in screws about here in our panels Lee will have a screw here and then 24 inches down here so we want this Ridge cap to be Center onto the strapping here and then we can then measure down 24 and just continue now so installing the strappings not really that difficult basically all you have to do is lay one down here and then you’re going to place your taut one where you’re going to have your ridge cap mounted down to and then you can measure down from this one here 24 inches so we’re going to be 24 inch on center all the way down to the bottom you might have to put a filler strip in so you always end up on 24 inch centers so we have a foot overhang on this roof your roof may be different so you have to measure in and see the overhang basically from we know that there’s going to be a truss in here somewhere we know basically a foot let’s say 30 and a half inches over on this roof there’s going to be a truss so we can throw our measuring tape on here and go across and then the next trust is going to be 24 inches from this one here so basically we’re 24 and then 24 24 depending on if your roof is on 24 inch centers or it’s on 16 inch centers usually they’re on 24 inch centers you want to install the screws right into the trusses so they’re secured down before you install any metal you want to install the eave trim at the bottom and the gable trim if not you can leave the screws out at the bottom and then you can slide the eave trim in afterwards basically gable trim just goes right up to the edge right on your strapping and you can overlap the piece at the bottom there and see fits on there nice and what I do is I just tack it down with some roofing nails because you want it flat you don’t want a head of a screw or a nail on this piece you don’t have to secure this really that well because the screws of the the metal will be going through it so these pieces are ten feet and I’ve got one to fit so this piece is going to go up here this piece goes on and then the ridge cap is going to go over top after when the roof is done you can bring it up to there if you like so basically just tack those on and tack them on at the bottom and then we can start laying our panels we’re almost there the order your metal you want to order the metal the whole length of the roof right from the bottom right from the eave right to basically the peak now these are 15 foot lengths I want to come up too far you’re going to have a gap in here because the ridge cap is going to go over top here so you don’t have to worry about this gap here between the metal panels they really don’t have to meet at the top because the ridge cap goes over and then we put in our closures the closures are the foam pieces that go in here and they seal it in from wind blowing in and such so basically all you got to do is lean these against the roof and then pull them up when you’re up there and then we’re going to square them up so we have to square up these panels because what’s going to happen is if we don’t square them up on the roof then they’re going to step off on us basically we pull a few panels up and then we can lay them in place and then square it if you want to do it that way or you can do it with measurements the way I’ve done it before is just pull the panel up and lay them into place and then basically when you have a square and it hasn’t stepped off at the bottom any then you can just tack it in I have a panel here it’s ledged up and I have one installed basically tacked in so it’s just tacked in place at the top so it won’t move at the bottom thus where I want it and so what you want to do is you want to have the fat lip down so they call this one here the fat lip and see here it’s larger than the other lip so we want that one down and then we’re going to cover over top of this one with the smaller lip here so this is the smaller one so that one’s going to lay on top this one here we want to screw down the seams first because we want these seams nice and tight the most important thing of laying these panels out is to get the first one completely Square and straight up and down on the roof so basically before you tack it in place you can then move it around a little bit to get it square so what I’ve done is I’ve taken two panels I put two panels together I found that if you have two panels together you can move the two panels together and you can get them square onto the roof these panels here are perfectly straight it’s really important to get your first panel square with the roof now if the roof is not square and you place you just put your panel down and you go basically you just line it up with the original gable from one end to the other end then what could happen is all your panels will be then crooked basically what you can do is you can just look from down here and you can see the overhang that I have over on this side only have about three quarters of an inch one inch over here and on the other end I have an inch and a quarter or so over there so we want to slight bit of overhang here and what I’m gonna have to do is tip it out at the top so then these panels will be straight so I have my first panel there set and basically after you set your first panel all the other ones are going to run off of it so if that one’s crooked then all the other ones are going to be crooked now it’s kind of hard sometimes to get it perfect because the roof itself might not be square so it doesn’t really matter that much if it runs off a little bit but you certainly don’t want it running off too much because if you go from one end and you get down to the other end you might be too short if you don’t want to spend the time trying to square it up with the strapping then you can just lay your panel and sort of square it with two panels together that’s what I do and sort of move it until both the panels are basically square so it really doesn’t matter if this crease here like these creases line up on the other side because no one’s going to see that get it as close as possible but it’s hard to to get these to line up with both sides because one side of the roof might not be square so one side of the roof might be a little different than the other side so basically getting them to line up can be difficult common thing that’s going to happen if your roof is not square is the panels are going to start stepping off and you can see here this one you can see that this it’s a quarter inch off so basically you don’t have to worry about that at the top here it’s the bottom where you’re going to worry if it steps off too far now you can cut it afterwards but it is difficult to cut so really you don’t have to worry about the stepping off if it’s just between a small gap like a half inch quarter inch right so you have your first panel installed and you’re going to install your next panel beside it most important thing when you’re putting down these panels or screwing them down is to do the seams first so basically I’ve just tacked it in place I’ve laid the next one over I’ve done here is I’ve just locked the small lip over top of the fat lip and I’ve just put installed a screw so it’s just tacked in place for now and I’m up at the top now what I’m going to do is I’m going to go right down to the bottom and I’m going to go up the ladder and then I’m going to throw a screw in at the bottom in the same spot but on the bottom and that’s going to ensure that this seam here or these laps are then locked in place properly and then I’m going to come back up and I’m going to throw the screws in one here and I’m going to make my way down and and do this seam first and then what we can do is we can just come over to this side and we can then install the screws from from here all the way down in the piece of the strapping so then this panel will be locked in place and then we can put on the next one if you want you can start installing the screws after you’ve locked in the seam okay so you can see the screw that I’ve tacked in at the top and now I’m at the bottom so I’m going to come down here and you can see that we get down to the bottom here we see that this panel can move and watch and see how I can move over top of the lap so that’s where why you want to lock in these panels first because what will happen is if you start throwing in screws this could then move and you won’t be locked in properly so that’s why it’s really important we can just line this up here down at the bottom here and you make sure that this is locked in nice and then we can just tack a screw right here I’m gonna tack this in place and then I’m going to go back up and I’m going to start running these screws down the lap here the screws are in for the seams you can see all the way up so that’s locked in really well so what I can do is i can go come over here and then i can just tack it down this edge here and then i can lap the next panel on the screws are using are these metal screws and you can see that they have a gasket on them there’s a washer with a gasket will try to drive one down with the camera here I don’t think I really see it that well but basically put it here apply pressure okay so now it’s bit into the wood you can see and I’ll take the camera so I’m going to drive it down of course you can drive it down a lot faster and basically when it touches that’s it that’s all we want you can see how can’t move the washer but we haven’t squished the rubber gasket underneath bill roofing you’re going to install the screws in straight lines so basically in a straight row with your you’re strapping here and basically all you have to do is take some string go down to one end tie it to one of the screws tighten the screw down pull the string over here and then connect the screw to this end to your farthest side so from that end to this end and then tighten the string and then all you have to do is just follow that string line and they’ll give you a perfect nice straight roll for your screws the placement of the screws basically what I do is I just put a screw here so this is your seam you’re going to have two screws here at your seam we have one here one here then skip this one and then come over to here and then come over to here and then you’re going to have two screws again when you start you’re gonna have two then you skip over one here and then skip over already here cl2 installing the ridge cap well what I’ve done here is I’ve taken the ridge caps and I’ve just laid them on temporarily so I’ve laid two pieces I have one down there they’re in 10-foot lengths I have another one I’ve laid them out why I do that is because then I can get it straight. I can line it up and I can then you know take a look at it with the two pieces on there looks pretty good and what I’m going to do now is I’m going to take a marker and I’m just going to this just washable marker and I’m just going to mark a line beside the ridge cap so basically I’m just going to mark in here in here and I’m going to go all the way down I’ve already done it so far so I’m going to go all the way down the reason why I’m putting this line on here is so then I know where to put my closures so the closures are the foam pieces that go in so basically they’re going to go up about here they’re going to be in the middle of this I have my closures here they’re just foam pieces of foam and basically they lock in to each other they have little little grooves in them tongue and groove so we can lock them in to each other the closures here are really important because they go up under here and they then seal this in because if blowing rain comes it’ll just get right up under here and it’ll make its way up to the top so the foam here these closures seal that in so we want the closure I put them right here I put them basically in the middle here and then we’re going to drive a screw right in here so the screws that we install go right into here and here all the way across so they go into this the ridged part of the panel not into the flat part because if you drove it in here then it would it would Bend this down so screws go in here foams gonna go in here so I’m going to start laying these out I’ve marked my lines I know where to put the foams basically I’m just going to install the foams an inch and a half up from this line here so let’s slide this back the line can see here and I’m going to start installing these closures now basically they have sticky on them and you just stick them down so each one locks into one another so we can start from either end it doesn’t really matter it’s so easy to do with the camera all right so basically this one here you can install over top of the fat lip if you like once you stick them down there they really stick well so it can we can put it right about here inch and a half up so it locks on to there see and then you just stick it down right over there and we’re going to keep going we’re gonna go right down to the end with these closures we can lock this one in here’s the tongue here and the groove on this one lock it in keep going down all the way to the end and then you have to do it on this side as well and then we can install the ridge cap alright so I have the closures on you can see just going from one end to the other end and basically they’re stuffed down once you stick them down you can’t really move them they’re locked right in so they’re not perfectly straight but that’s not a big deal I drop my ridge cap down so I’m probably not going to be able to record installing this but it’s pretty straightforward once you lay it down on top line it up with your lines and then drive your screws and drive the screws in in this area here basically so right in here and you’re going to hit every single Ridge of the panel here alright guys well that was a steel roof installation and I still have to continue on with this but basically I’ve given enough information I think to get yourself started thank you for watching.
How to Install Metal Roofing Panels?
All right, in this section we’re going to be talking about how to install the panel’s now that we’ve got the roof all stripped out with our wood strips we’ve got the drip edge trim installed where we need it we’ve got the pipe flashings all blocked out and ready to go we’re ready to start screwing down the roof but before you start putting screws in I want you to think about a couple important things first important thing about this particular type of metal panel is that it has two different edges and you want to make sure to put the right edge down first before you lap the other one over it’s on this panel I like to call it the skinny and the fat laps one is smaller than the other and if you look it up close it’ll be obvious this edge ends right here on the curve this other edge which I call the fat lab has this little leg that sticks out from the side you want to put the fat lap down first and overlap it with the skinny lap this is a common mistake that I see people make by lapping the panel’s the wrong way before you start screwing your panels down there’s a couple things you might want to keep in mind as as far as deciding which part of your roof you’re going to start running your panel from if you live in an area of high winds or your house is particularly exposed to the elements you want to start running your panels in the direction so that the lap on the metal faces away from the direction of the prevailing winds so that the prevailing winds won’t tend to want to get up under that lap and damage the metal you don’t have that to worry about there’s a couple other things you want to keep in mind and deciding where to start for this side of the model is pretty easy you’ve got one full-length piece that’s going to run the whole way so I’m going to start on this open gable end if you’re working on a part of your house that has a valley or a hip at the other end you’re going to want to start at the end where you can start with one full-length sheet that you don’t have to cut and run towards the hip or the valley that you’re going to have to cut to determine how much of the panel is going to overhang the edge of the roof you’re going to need to decide what to have an edge detail you’re going to use first if you’re using a drip edge trim I recommend running the panel so that it over overhangs the edge of the roof just as much as this first rib so you line this this crease in the middle up with the edge of the drip edge and let just this much overhang the side of the roof in this instance we’re going to use the gable end trim so what I’m going to do is line this this edge of the panel up flush with the outside of this strip would strip in the fascia I have to worry about seeing this wood strip and the shingles in the edge of the fascia board right now because I’m going to come back later after I’ve got this panel installed and install the gable end trim overtop and it’s going to hide all that now that you’ve got the panel pulled up on the roof it’s time to start setting your screws this part of your project is always best to have two people on hand gonna have one person at the top of the panel and one person at the bottom to help hold it in place and square it up the person at the bottom has an important job because he is going to need to measure both edges of the panel against the drip edge to make sure that the panel is running square against drip edge take your time lining this panel up correctly because once you screw it in place the orientation of it is going to determine how Square all the rest of your panels on this run are going to line up in accordance with the fascia alright so now that we’ve got the first panel on it’s time to talk about something that can cause you fits later if you don’t pay close attention to it now and that is the fact that often times the panel is not going to run square with the house either it’s not going to run squarely with the edge of the fascia board on the outside of the gable or it’s going to run off square along the bottom edge and this is due to a simple fact the panel is going to be perfectly square but the rest of the house that you’re putting it on may not be even on new construction projects I’ve often found the house is not completely square and this is going to show up in the way that you install your panels there’s a couple things you need to take into consideration when you’re dealing with this problem first of all if your house has gutters on it from the ground you’re not going to be able to see this bottom edge of the metal so really in my opinion it’s okay if it runs off a little bit it’s going to get a little bit of a stair-step to it as it goes along you adjust for the out of squareness but that’s okay because no one’s going to see it from the ground if you have an edge of the panel that’s going to be very visible from the ground like it’s over a deck or over your front door you’re going to want to make allowances to make sure that all your panels run straight and that there’s an even line on the bottom there’s a couple ways you can accomplish this first one is what we just showed you measuring off the first panel making sure you get it really square that’s going to help you make sure that all the rest of the panel’s have the exact same reveal all the way down another way that we accomplish keeping these panels square is by installing a string line down here at the bottom all the way across you make sure it’s the right set for the correct reveal in this case we’re doing two inches so we set the string two inches off the bottom that’s going to help keep your panel square all the way if you don’t run the panel square it’s going to get a little bit of a stair to step to it that looks like this and there are a few ways you can deal with this one of which is to let it run off square and then come back later try to trim it off straight that might sound like a good idea it’s a lot more difficult in practice than it might sound to you to begin with if the bottom edge of the panel runs a little stair-stepped it’s really not that big of a deal and honestly you can’t see it that well from the ground and no one’s going to notice it I wouldn’t put a lot of time and effort trying to get it exactly right because oftentimes the house is a square it’s not going to run straight you need to keep in consideration what’s the most visible visible side of the metal and make allowances to keep that side as square as possible if the gable end is overhanging a door or garage where you’re always going to be see it seeing it you want to pay more attention to that take more time getting that edge Square and let the bottom edge run off vice versa if the bottom edge is going to be more visible tape spend some more time getting this square don’t beat yourself up if it doesn’t run perfectly because often times no matter what kind of house we’re putting these roofs on we often have a little trouble getting it perfect now that we got our first panel installed we’re happy how we got it too said it’s running square to the roof I got my second panel and ready to go here I’m gonna make a couple important points about the way that I want you to run the screws on the roof first of all check that you got your panel lined up well with the other one I’m going to double check the measurement off the fascia like we did on the first panel to make sure it’s 2 inches just like the other one we’ve got this screw this string line that we installed in place that’s going to also help us make sure that the panel is running Square to the rest of the roof all right so when you start running your first screws I always put my hand or if the roofs not as steep you can actually stand on the edge of the panel make sure that this overlapping rib the short rib is seated very firmly you’re going to put a screw in right next to the rib to hold this panel down you might be inclined to start running your screws horizontally I want you to actually run the screws vertically in the correct places first along each rib before you start running them horizontally that might not be a terribly obvious point at the beginning but I’ll tell you I’ve learned the hard way that if you run the screws horizontally to begin with it can actually tweak the panel a little bit and cause them the lap on the panel not to sit as close closely as you want it to all right we got a panel screw down now I’m going to show you exactly where each screw needs to go this is very important I see a lot of people try to skimp on the number of screws they use don’t do anything but exactly what I’m about to show you here okay as I said before when we were putting the strips on the screws are going to be every two feet on center or approximately every two feet on center every 20 inches every 28 inches it’s going to be okay you’re going to put a screw starting as I just described next to the lap over the other one we got the short lap over the fat lap here you’re going to put a screw right in the middle of this flat pan if you have a different style panel that’s fine just don’t put the screw too close to the the ridge don’t put it too close to any of these other corrugations you want to put put it right in the flattest part of the metal and you’re going to put one next to each rib as you go along as I said we’ve screwed up this run up this run up this run and so forth you’ve got a screw next to each rib this panel has five ribs so you got these screws next to this one and then on the last panel okay on the last little section here you’re going to put two screws in that’s because we want to hold this fat lip down real tight to the roof so that the next panel short lip that comes over it is going to seat really well so you got two screws in here and one in each other one now you’ll notice at the bottom of the panel I’ve got two screws in between each corrugation and that’s because the bottom edge of the roof is where you’re going to get most your wind uplift so if you’re ever going to have a panel get ripped off the roof it’s because it’s going to be weak down here at the bottom it’s going to start here the winds going to take it off so we always do double screws down here at the bottom edge just to be careful now you want to take be careful and take precautions to make sure that your screws are running straight now this is something we’ve learned over the years if you have a really steep roof that’s very visible from the from the ground this screw lines are going to be extremely visible and if your screws are going all over the place you’re going to be able to see it from the ground so plate close attention if your roof is extremely steep if your roofs pretty flat and you don’t really see the screws from the bottom it’s not as important but you do want to take precautions to make sure the screws are in a straight line because it’s easy to get off as you’re screwing and miss the board however you’ll notice to get the screws straight on this panel all we did was line up with the other screws that we had already put in and snap the chalk line on it that’s probably the easiest way to do it just as you go along snap a line on each run that you’re going to want to put in sometimes will mark the panels with a pencil on the ground every two feet if we know where the boards are that sort of thing but I think the chalk lines the easiest way to go and here’s a point that might not be obvious at the time we’re using a red chalk on this red panel but if you don’t use a red metal I definitely recommend going with like a blue chalk or white chalk because the ridge hunk is going to stain the panel no matter what color chalk you use we’ll back and wipe it off later that might sound like a lot of work but the chalk does not wash off the roof as easily as you might think I’ve gone back on roofs we did five years ago and there’s still red chalk all over the roof so make sure you wipe it off it’s going to make it look better in the long run alright now that I’ve showed you where the screws go on the panel I want to make a really important point about one of the most important skills that you’re going to need to pick up on to install your roof correctly and that is exactly how to drive the screw and install it now if you look closely at the screw you’ll notice on this particular screw there’s different types of screws but they all have going to have a rubber washer on them covered by some sort of metal cap on this screw the rubber washer is slightly smaller than the little metal cap that protects it the important point to make is that when you drive the screw you don’t want to drive it too far most people’s inclination is to really bear down on it and tighten the screw as tight as they can every time the problem with this is that it can damage the rubber washer by over compressing it kind of splaying it out and breaking the washer that’s going to cause it to break down quicker and could lead to some leaks in the future what you want to do when you install the screw put it down tight enough so that the rubber washer is well compressed so that it spreads out a little bit but just to the edge of that metal cap on top of the screw if the rubber washer extends past the edge of this metal cap too much what you want to do is just back off it a little bit as a certain art to this as you do it you’ll get better at it but take the time with each screw to make sure that you install it correctly if you’re not sure if the screw is tight enough a good way to tell is to put your fingers down on the washer and try to twist it if you can twist the washer on the screw it’s not going to be tight enough put another half a turn or a turn on it to make sure that it’s tight enough sometimes also you’ll notice that this the washer will get compressed the screw will seem tight but that the panel beneath it is not fully compressed up against the wood strip below if it looks like there’s a little bit of a bubble in the panel push on the panel around the screw and if you can push and move the panel a little bit and push it down so that it touches the wood strip below it that means that you haven’t screwed it in quite tight enough put another couple turns on the screw to pull that panel flush with the wood strip below it now that we’ve reached the end of our roof we’re going to have to rip our very last panel to length to fit over top now because we’ve got drip edge here the panel is going to extend over top of the drip edge and overhang the roof a little bit I’d recommend letting the panel overhang the same distance we do on the bottom about an inch and a half to two inches max as with the other measurements we’ve made make sure to take this measurement from the inside of the Fatlip and you’re going to want to make two measurements for this last panel one at the bottom and one at the top that way if the roof is a little bit out of square that measurement will help to accommodate that so we’re going to look at this down here it’s 14 inches to the edge of the drip edge I’m going to do an inch and a half over. we’re going to call that 15 and a half inches down here and up top you see that it’s runoff about half an inch that’s 14 and a half inches up there we’re going to call that 16 inches we’re going to transcribe that on to our last panel we’re going to make our rip and install the panel as I mentioned in the introduction this 5v crimp panel can be installed using all the same techniques that we’ve described in this video series the only real difference in installing this panel is where you put the screws or make a quick point about this style of panel it’s got a short lip and a fat lift just like the Georgia rib panel that we install throughout this series you can tell that the fat lip has a little wider edge to it here that’s the side of the metal panel that goes down underneath the short lip okay so make sure you get that right as far as the screws go you’re just going to put one screw on each side of the rib you put a screw next to the double V here you’re going to put a screw on either side of this middle rib and then another screw next to the double V on the far side by the fat lip that’s going to give you four screws across the width of this 2 foot panel and those are the basics for installing metal roofing panels to see the other 13 segments of this video series please go to roofing intelligence com you.
How to insulate a metal shed?
It is a good idea to insulate your shed. It does not only protect your stored items, but it also cools temperature inside the shed. Insulation prolongs the life of the shed too. The steps enumerated below will help you to insulate your shed.
Choose the right insulation type. Foam boards are commonly used because they are cheaper and durable
Cut the foam board to perfectly fit all the sides of the roof
Apply adhesive according to the direction of the walls and roof. Ensure there is an air gap between roof panels and the foam board.
How to paint a metal shed?
Your metal shed doesn’t have to be an eyesore. One of the best ways to give your shed a facelift is to repaint it. Below is how to go about it.
-Clean the metal shed thoroughly
Ensure the shed is properly cleaned before applying the paint. Clean the grease and dirt on the shed. You need to scrape off the old existing paint on the shed. You may need to sandblast the shed. Without a thorough cleaning, the paint won’t stay on the shed.
-Repair the damaged parts
If some parts of the shed are damaged, this is an opportunity to repair them. By repairing the dented or damaged parts, you will get a smooth surface that makes painting the shed easy.
-Apply rust neutralizer
Rust neutralizer helps to prevent the metal shed from rust. Look for rust-preventive chemical and apply thoroughly on the shed. Allow it to dry properly
-Apply metal primer
There are two types of metal primer. There is zinc chromate and red-oxide zinc chromate. Use the zinc chromate if your metal shed is made of aluminium. Use the red-oxide zinc chromate if the shed is made of galvanized steel. Allow it to dry for 24 hours.
-Use oil-based or lacquer-based paint
Latex paint is not ideal for painting metal shed. You either look for an oil-based paint or lacquer-based paint. The oil-based paint is usually called Gloss paint.
-Use a spray gun
Use a spray gun to paint your metal shed because it helps the paint to spread evenly. Don’t use a paintbrush.
How to install metal siding on a shed?
Galvanized steel has a special zinc coating for the purpose of resisting rust. It has been used for a long time for the construction of barns, sheds and other structures. It is also used as siding on buildings. Below is what you need to make the siding of a shed:
Galvanized steel panels
Power drill with screw tip
One and a half inch screws along with plastic washer heads
Saw with a metal cutting blade
Metal drill bit
Install the siding at the door
Start to install the siding at the door, window and every other opening. Ensure that you run the corrugated siding vertically for proper drainage and water protection. Avoid running siding to touch the ground. Leave one or two inches space before the siding reaches the ground. You can use a trim tool to trim the shed.
Install the panel
Start to install the panel one and a half-inch wood screws with plastic washers under the head of the screws. Drive in the screws with a screw gun. Drive the screw carefully not to damage the washers. Allow a space of about 13 to 17 inches between screws. It is more convenient if you have pre-drill holes on the siding. It makes the work a lot easier
The panel must be overlapped according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Then, you can cut the panel to fit with a metal saw. Wear gloves to avoid injuries due to pointed sharp edges.
Put moisture barrier.
This is not compulsory but moisture barrier is very important if you want to avoid condensation. First is to put the moisture barrier on the wall if it is corrugated steel on foam board insulation.
How to stop condensation on the metal shed roof?
Metal shed roof condensation is a regular occurrence. If condensation is not checked, it could make stored items such as tools to become rusty and spoil fabric materials. Condensation is usually caused by water vapor in the air. The moment warm moisture loaded air comes in contact with cold surfaces, condensation happens by showing up water droplets that are seen underneath the roof.
If you build a metal shed on a concrete slab without having a strong barrier beneath the concrete foundation, condensation would be a constant occurrence. Stored water will be transmitted from the ground into the shed. So, the best way to reduce condensation is when the slab foundation is being built.
There are two ways you can reduce condensation.
One way is to build the foundation properly. Ensure that the foundation has a damp proof when it is being constructed. This is the best way to eliminate the source of water that usually causes condensation.
The second way to reduce condensation is to improve the ventilation of the metal shed at the roof level. This can be done by making small holes on each side of the roof level so that warm moist air inside the shed can easily be let out. Having ventilation on each side of the shed’s wall means breeze will be let in to clear the warm air. These two combinations will effectively help to eliminate condensation from your metal shed.
Watch the video on how to insulate steel building a fast and easy way?
Something different today it’s kind of cool if you have a metal building this is a carport but it gets really hot in here and I was thinking what can I do to insulate this because you know you could spray foam on here you know who has a spray foam rig and it’s kind of ugly when you put it on it you want to drywall over it and it’s pretty ugly to do all that stuff but I’m going to show you how you can do that basically the same thing for a lot less money and you could do it yourself in just a few hours you could do this whole garage in in one day and this is 10 feet tall goes up over here so and also make it a little bit quieter at the same time maybe dead and some of the noise you get rid of some of that so it’s really easy to do over at home depot metal sheds they have this nice Energy Star stuff it’s basically foam with a radiant barrier on it so what does that do that insulates very good insulation all you do is you cut it to fit so you cut it from here measure from here to here back up so you can see once I come out from here to there your piece I’ve had about an inch to your measurement you know three quarters of an inch to inch to measurement something like that which usually cut the pieces so then what you’re going to have to do on this because it’s such a wide area you have to put several dots of 100% silicone put a few dots across here few dots across here just a few small dots maybe about that big around and then because it pretty much stays on its own but you just push the piece in shove it in the hole let the silicone do its work but because it’s a little bit wider than the area even on the ceiling when you push it in place it will stay and I’ll show you what that’s like I haven’t shed I’ve done the same way I’m doing my sheds my mental buildings I’m doing everything with this stuff right here and it really makes a difference makes it a lot cooler looking forward to summer coming and being able to still work so basically I did this shed same way you can use it for wood metal anything and it will insulate it it makes it a lot cooler typically when you put up insulation you need to have insulation and you have to have drywall over that for it to work but this stuff because it has the foam and the radiant barrier it it does all that at once so you eliminate having to put the drywall over it so it just pushes into place doesn’t really have an R rating but it does work really well so basically all I did in here it just cut these a little bit larger than the hole is understand looser kind of just you know 1/2 inch 3/4 of an inch push it into place that’s all the holds it’s just the fact that it’s just shoved in there it stays there it’s been that way for years and doesn’t doesn’t work the heat doesn’t do anything to it it works pretty well so you can use it for drawers attic all different types of things you can use it for and it’s really good insulator especially the 1 inch friend of mine has a 1 inch and his still shed and that’s his office and he has a little air conditioner in the wall and it stays cool all the time it doesn’t you’d never even know and that’s all I had just this didn’t have any drywall in there it’s just like one of those little steel sheds you got it you get at home depot metal sheds for like 900 bucks so anyway oh you like it twelve by fourteen that’s it so anyway that’s a great little trick for you guys learning how to do your insulation on your building.
This video below might help you to understand how to paint metal products:
Over time metal gets old, rusty and flakes. We’ve found this old gate, we’re going to
renew it and hang it up and use it as a nice piece of decorative furniture in our garden.
For this job, we’re going to need quite a bit of equipment. We’re going to need some
gloves, face mask, earmuffs, goggles to protect your eyes, sand paper, some wire brushes,
drop cloth, paint, cleaner, solvent, but it’s going to look fantastic when we’re finished
The first thing we’ll do is we’re going to put down our drop sheet, get our mask and
safety gear on, wire brush and start scraping off all the old paint and sanding back the rust.
Another way to get paint off is using a cordless drill and a wire brush
attachment. This works a lot quicker, a lot faster and strips off the flaky paint. Third
and final way to get rust and flaky paint off your metal is with sand paper and good
old elbow grease, so let’s get to it.
Now that we have taken all the flaky paint off, it’s time to put our top coat on. For
wrought iron and steel in severe conditions you can use a primer, for aluminum and brass
use an SL Edge primer [SP]. For this gate, we have two options. We have a paintable epoxy
primer or a spray. I’m going to show you how to do both. If you’re going to use a spray
can, you got to make sure you shake it well for about two minutes. When spraying, do light
even coats and slowly build them up one by one and don’t do it on a windy day.
Using this epoxy paint, make sure you give it a good stir with a flat paddle. We’re going
to transfer this into another container, so we keep our lip clean, so the paint will seal
again. I’m not going to wear a mask because am in a well ventilated area.
Couple of tips:
– don’t forget to lay the drop sheet down, it can get messy. Don’t put too much paint
on your brush. You don’t want any runs or drips. And this is going to require two coats,
so refer to your manufacturer’s instructions about the amount of drying time in the between
the first and the second coat and this will look good when we hang it back up.
Now I’ve let our first coat dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. We’re
going apply our second coat, allow that to dry and then our gate will be finished. And
that’s how you paint metal.
Good thinking is what produces good products. We highly recommend Arrow Sheds for their sturdiness and durability. They have some of the best metal storage sheds. This is not to say the other products are bad. Generally, metal sheds are maintenance-free but they have to be cleaned periodically to keep them neat. Metal sheds are more secure ways to keep your property safe from theft because most of them are pad-lockable.
If your belongings are beginning to overflow in your home, this is the best time to purchase a metal shed that would also add some beauty to your exteriors. Always look out for metal sheds made from electro-galvanized steel for peace of mind. We hope our best storage sheds review has been able to guide you to make an informed opinion for the best metal sheds suitable for your storage purposes.
Edmond Clark is a 34-year-old Blogger from California, USA. He is a Certified Market Research Professional (MRP) & a full-time blogger. His aim is to help the consumer to choose the best product from the market. Contact him for any of your queries.