10 Best Metal Sheds for Keeping Your Garden Tools Safe

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What type of shed is best for storing tools and equipments?

This is the usual question and I guess you are asking the same question too, right?

Well, let’s face the reality

  • You would want something strong and durable.
  • You would want a shed that won’t store rain water and
  • You want something that can secure your properties

If all that is right, then, what you need is a metal shed. Metal sheds are rust-resistant and last longer than wooden sheds. Read on as we review the 10 best metal shed.

It is open secret that a steel storage shed is stronger than a wooden shed. Despite the fact that they are lightweight, metal sheds are tough enough to withstand harsh weather conditions. They can be used to store different items such as lawnmowers, bikes, garden tools, toys, car, etc. Choosing the right shed can be a herculean task. Here is a review of the best metal sheds so as to make a good choice.

Top 10 Metal Sheds Comparisons

The comparison table below gives you a birds-eye view of the 10 best metal sheds. Carefully looking at the comparison table will effectively aid your choice.

Top 10 Best Metal Sheds Reviews

1. Arrow Hamlet shed

Best metal shedsThis metal shed is made of electro-galvanized steel. It is water-resistant. It is also resistant to rust and corrosion. It has a sloped roof to discourage the storage of rain water. The sliding doors provide easy access in and out of the shed. It has a door opening of about 58 inches high. This metal shed is perfectly suitable for both indoor and outdoor storage purposes. When it comes to assembly, the Arrow Hamlet Shed is super easy to assemble because the parts are already pre-cut and pre-drilled thereby reducing human labour. This is a compact and economical storage system for your yard. With pad-lockable doors, you are sure that your items are safe and secure. The anchoring kit protects the shed from turbulent winds and damage. Anchoring kit is sold separately.

Here is a bigger size of this model: Arrow 8′ x 6′ Hamlet Storage Shed.

Features

  • Easy storage – This shed provides 142 cubic feet of storage making it very convenient to be set up in smaller areas
  • Superb design – With a sloped steel roof, the design is made to avoid the storage of rain
  • Durable – This shed is produced with electro-galvanized steel making it very strong and durable
  • Water-resistant – The shed is completely water-resistant. It is resistant to corrosion and protects against rot, UV rays and adverse weather conditions
  • Safe & secure – It has pad-lockable doors making your items safe and secure against theft.

2. Storboss Mountaineer MHD Storage Shed

best storage shedsThis multi-purpose storage shed has plenty of storage space. It comes with big door openings. This shed is roomy enough to store a car. It is suitable for a workshop too. It is capable of withstanding heavy snow load. It can withstand harsher weather conditions than other metal sheds since it is made with hot-piped, electro-galvanized steel. It comes in the high-quality enamel paint finish. The steel panel thickness is 15% thicker than the average steel. With 8 foot wide double re-inforced swing outdoors, you are sure of easy access to store valuable items. This is not just a metal shed; it is a building in itself.

Features

  • Spacious enough – The shed is spacious enough to store your car by driving it in. Its 8 feet swinging door is wide enough to store heavy machinery and equipment including a boat.
  • 100% galvanized steel – It is made with 100% Hot Dipped Galvanized (HDG) steel so as to effectively fight corrosion
  • High gable roof – The high gable roof alongside the steel trusses material make the head of the roof very roomy
  • Wide doors – The wide doors are of great benefit. They provide easy access to vehicles and other items
  • Weather-resistant – The shed is water-resistant and can also withstand bad weather conditions

3. Arrow Oakbrook High Gable Steel Shed

steel storage shedWhen it comes to set up, building a metal shed using the Arrow Oakbrook Storage Shed is all about convenience. The shed features a high gable roof that provides more storage space for your items. There is enough headroom to store more with ease. Assembly is snappy because the parts are pre-drilled and pre-cut. The shed has wide door opening allowing you to access any needed item. It is 769 cubic feet; this is enough to store such as lawnmower, bicycles, gardening tools and other overflowing items in your home. The shed is attractive with alluring eggshell and taupe colour scheme to give your exterior an aesthetic look that you have always wanted. This shed is produced with top-notch materials. This is a great backyard storage system for anyone who needs an ideal metal shed.

Features

  • Corrosive resistant – This shed is built with well treated electro-galvanized steel in order to perfectly resist corrosion
  • Water-resistant – The shed is water-resistant. It is protected against extreme weather conditions. It is also protected from rot, UV-rays and insects.
  • High gable roof – There is enough headroom since the roof is designed in high gable roof style
  • Pad-lockable door – The shed has pad-lockable sliding doors so as to ensure your valuable items are safe and secure
  • Ease of set up – This is a DIY assembly since the parts have been pre-cut and pre-drilled.

4. Arrow Brentwood Steel

small shed for garden toolsA portable outdoor metal shed is what is ideal for you if you have fewer items to store. This is why an Arrow Shed like this one is a good choice if you are looking for something portable. This 5 x 4 feet storage shed is versatile and stylish too. It is 93 cubic feet and 4 feet in depth. This shed can be conveniently stored at a corner in your home. The Brentwood Shed would blend perfectly with your home exteriors since the shed is made in taupe and coffee finish.

Features

  • Electro-galvanized steel – The shed is built with electro-galvanized steel with zinc treatment making it difficult for the shed to become corrosive.
  • Long lasting – The steel construction is made with galvanized steel making it capable of resisting terrible weather conditions, rot and insects.
  • Locking door – The shed has a pad-lockable door to guarantee the safety and security of your items.
  • Easy assembly and set up – It is easy to assemble and set up this shed because the parts are pre-cut and pre-drilled.

5. Arrow Newburgh Eggshell

best looking shedsThe Newburgh Storage Shed is powerfully made with low gable reinforced steel for great stability. The steel construction is made with electro-galvanized steel so as to resist rot, insects and bad weather. It has a 60 inches tall wall for ease of accessing the shed. This Newburgh Shed is perfect for keeping items like lawnmowers, bicycles and other equipment. The shed looks attractive with sliding doors for easy entry and exit. The shed’s door opening measures 4×7 inches wide and comes pad-lockable. Assembling the shed is simple due to the fact that the parts are already pre-cut and pre-drilled by the manufacturer. It is important to note that the padlock and anchoring kit is sold separately.

You may also consider Arrow 5′ x 4′ Newburgh Eggshell or Arrow 6′ x 5′ Newburgh Eggshell with Coffee Trim Low Gable Electro-Galvanized Steel Storage Shed.

Features

  • Electro-galvanized steel – The galvanized steel is treated with zinc to make it withstand rot, insects, harsh weather and corrosion.
  • Low gable roof – The shed has a low gable reinforced steel roof to ensure the shed is stable
  • Safety & security – It comes with a pad-lockable sliding door to keep stored items safe and secured
  • Appealing exterior – This shed makes your exterior very appealing because of its neutral palette eggshell and coffee finish
  • Great for small spaces – The shed serves a good purpose in smaller backyards for the easy storage of gardening tools.

6. Click-Well 5×3 Metal Storage Shed

fire resistant shedsThis is mainly a low-profile horizontal metal storage shed ideal for storing the lawnmower, trash, garden tools, firewood, etc. The shed is made durable with galvanized steel. It comes with a protective roof door. This is a water-resistant shed built for outdoor purpose. Water is unable to store on the roof when it rains because there is drainage constructed beneath the top of the roof.

Features

  • Thicker galvanized steel – The metal shed is constructed with thicker galvanized steel making it strong and durable. This makes it rust-resistant.
  • Safe to set up – To minimize injury, the sharp edges of the metal shed have been well folded during fabrication to guarantee safety during installation.
  • Easy assembly – Since the parts for assembling the shed are already pre-cut and pre-drilled, this makes set up so easy and convenient.
  • Great finish – The creamy finish complements the exterior so well.

7. Arrow AR108 Arlington Storage Shed

metal shed reviewsThe Arlington Storage Shed is superb for storing items such as sports gears, garden tools, lawnmower and other outdoor equipment. A large door opening makes it more suitable for storing larger items. Its gable roof style provides for more headroom for storing items like a truck. The sliding doors are very much pad-lockable. This ensures the safety and security of your precious items. Assembling the shed is much quicker because all the parts needed are pre-cut and pre-drilled. Made with durable galvanized steel, your items now have a suitable home.

Features

  • Easy to assemble – Readily made pre-cut and pre-drilled parts make assembling so easy to accomplish.
  • High gable roof – The high gable roof construction provides enough headroom.
  • Lasting paint finish – The shed’s enamel paint finish gives your exterior an outstanding look.
  • 440 cubic feet – With 440 cubic feet, you cannot complain about space not being enough for your items.
  • Mid-mall brace – To ensure shed’s stability, the shed is fitted with a mid-wall brace.
  • Strong & durable – Since the shed is built with galvanized steel, strength and durability are assured.

8. Arrow EZEE 6’x5’ Steel Storage Shed

heavy duty metal shedEZEE is a stylish and modern outdoor storage shed for easy storage of your important items. Its attractiveness is a great complete for your home exteriors because it is colour palette finish is pleasing to the eye. Reinforced steel makes the shed’s wall sturdy and durable. It is built strong to resist damage. Assembly is faster than other metal sheds because of its Snap-It Quick Assembly system. This shed is well framed ensuring there are no exposed panels. It provides more headroom to create much more needed storage space. There are gable vents for proper ventilation. This helps to reduce humidity during the hot seasons. It has pad-lockable handles made of steel. The steel is zinc-treated to resist corrosion. The swing doors allow for easy access to your items. The doors have three hinges to ensure durability.

Features

  • Stronger shed – This shed is two times stronger than the other sheds because the panels overlap at every 12 inches making the shed thicker and increasing its strength.
  • Better handles – The improved steel door handle is zinc plated to withstand corrosion and rust. The handle is also pad-lockable thereby helping to make your items safe.
  • Easy to assemble – The metal shed is super easy to assemble. Just put the panels in place; bond the panels and the walls for a stronger shed.

9. Arrow EZEE 10’x8’ Steel Storage Shed Charcoal

best storage sheds reviewEZEE Charcoal has a design that is two times stronger than other sheds. Making it a durable metal shed. It is made with electro-galvanized steel to resist rust. This shed can serve as a mower shed. It is also impact-resistant thereby having less damage and dents. The Snap-It Quick Assembly system ensures the shed is set up in no time. This helps to cut down on assembly time by 50%. The attractive swing door guarantees quick entry and exit to stored items. The gable roof enhances ventilation and air circulation. The wall is 72 square feet tall providing more headroom to store taller items such as a tractor. It has charcoal and creamy trim finish making it more suitable for your exteriors. This is a well-modernized steel shed for utmost comfort.

Features

  • Much stronger – The shed is twice stronger because the bonding process increases the thickness and the strength of the shed.
  • Swing doors – The doors are large enough making swing doors the best for easy entry and exit. Bulky items can easily be stored with large door opening.
  • Snap-It-Quick Assembly system – This system helps to reduce the time of assembly by 50% making assembly a lot easier. This means less labour.
  • Accessibility – Accessing your stored items has never been this easy. With a 65 inches wall height and 31 inches door width, accessibility won’t be an issue.

10. Outsunny Outdoor Backyard Metal Shed

good shedsCreate extra storage space for your belongings with the Outsunny Shed. This is a complete garden shed for your garden tools and other items. The fact that this shed is affordable makes it more attractive. It is also durable since it is made from the finest galvanized steel material. This offers more protection from hazards such as fire, moisture, insects and pests. It comes well painted to resist bad weather conditions and rust. This shed is easy to set up because of its pre-fabricated parts helping to significantly cut down on labour. If you are looking to store your items safely and also add value to your exteriors; this shed is the real deal.

Features

  • Spacious – This is a spacious storage system for your gardening tools, lawn equipment, bicycles and other items.
  • Built to last – The shed is built using the finest galvanized steel and durable polypropylene construction.
  • Sloped roof – With a sloped roof, the shed is able to prevent moisture and resist harsh weather.
  • Sliding doors – With double sliding doors, you can easily access your belongings in a jiffy.
  • Vents – There are four vents for easy airflow and lighting.

What to consider when buying a metal shed

Except there is a plan for a store in your building plan before building your home, you may likely have overflowing items looking for where to keep them. This is when the consideration of having a metal shed comes in. Before you buy a shed, these are what you must take into consideration.

Sitting of the shed

Where to site the shed is usually something that is often overlooked. These are some rules to follow when you want to install a shed:

  • Site the shed close to the building – Typically, a shed is usually sited at the backyard. Ensure it is not too from the building. A shed that is closer to the building will be more useful because of its proximity to the building. The shed might be useless if it is too far away from the building.
  • Don’t site the shed at the bottom of a hill – Sitting a shed at the bottom of a hill won’t give it stability. It makes sense to site the shed on a level platform. Placing it on a hill may make it dangle.
  • Don’t place it in a shady place – There must be sunlight exposure and breeze wherever you want to place the shed so as to stop moisture from damaging your items.

Low-maintenance cost

Only look out for low-maintenance materials when purchasing a metal shed. This may be a bit costly at first but you will save a lot in the long run. Choose to make the exterior trim from PVC boards instead of using painted woods. This is because PVC boards are resistant to bugs and decay. Also, look out for steel doors because of their durability.

A strong foundation

A shed without a strong foundation won’t last. A cemented foundation is better than having a wooden foundation.

Ventilation

This is an important aspect when installing a shed. Proper ventilation reduces the chance of condensation.

Door placement

This is also another important consideration. They are two types of doors – sliding and hinged doors. The sliding doors are easier to install and glide easily out of the way but require a lot of space to slide while hinged doors use less space and usually close more tightly than sliding doors.

Some Important FAQs on Best Metal Sheds

How to install metal roofing on a shed?

Choosing to use metal roofing for your shed is perhaps the best decision you would ever make. There are different types of metal roof. There is Rib Steel Roofing, Snap Lock Roof, Standing Seam Roof and Galvanized Metal. The choice is yours. Metal roofing comes with the following advantages:

  • They are fire resistant. Aside from that, they are also resistant to bad weather, rust and insects
  • Metal roofing is strong. It lasts longer than other roofing methods
  • It is lightweight.
  • It is capable of holding loads of snow and ice
  • It is 100% recyclable

Installing metal roofing on a shed is easy and simple. It doesn’t require too many technicalities but for most DIY lovers, installing metal roofing is not one of those things you can do alone. For those who are willing to give it a try, this is how to go about installing metal roofing over your shed.

Tools needed for metal roofing

Installing metal roofing requires some tools. Here is a list of the tools needed:

  • Crimping tool
  • A cordless saw for wood cutting
  • Hammer, tape measure, metal shears, safety rope, anchor and harness belt
  • A good ladder
  • Roof stripping tools
  • Pre-measured and pre-cut metal roofing
  • Screws and nail
  • Roofing under-laying

Step 1

-Measuring the roofing and sketching a diagram

The first thing is to take measurement of your roofing from different angles. You need a precise measurement. Doing this means you have to make a diagram of the roof. Armed with the measurements, you can go to the supplier to get the roofing materials.

Step 2

-Preparing your roof deck

The next thing is to prepare the roof deck for the installation of the metal roof. It makes sense to tear off the old roofing in order to better prepare the roof deck. This is also an opportunity for you to detect rotten woods due for replacement.

Step 3

-Install the under-laying

Install the under-laying in a horizontal way with some overlapping and nail it accurately.

Step 4

-Install the drip edge

It is time to install the drip edge

Step 5

-Install the metal roofing

Lay the roofing metal and nail them one after the other. Use nails with caps or screws with strong washers.

Watch DIY Metal Roofing Installation, Basic How-To Video below:

Video transcript:

What’s up guys, how’s it going in today’s
video I’m working on a DIY metal roof
this video here is just a DIY video so
make sure you contact a professional
before you start installing your metal
roofing basically this video is just for
entertainment purposes if you pick up
some info on here that’s great
I’m just a DIY ER so I’m not a roofer
and basically I’m just sharing
information in these videos it’s just
entertainment and let’s get to our
project so in this video here I’m not
stripping the shingles I’m installing it
with the shingles already on the roof
nice thing about metal roofing is you
can install a little bit at a time you
can see here I have a say about 40% of
the roof done and basically I installed
that on the weekend so next weekend I
can then continue on with the strapping
here and I can then finish the whole
roof there’s many ways to go about this
now you can remove the shingles and then
you can put down a membrane or you can
put down tar paper and then you can
strap it and put on your metal or you
can put the metal right on to the
plywood surface after you’ve put down an
ash felt underlay or or a membrane or
you can go right over top of the
shingles now I’ve seen people do that
and they say it works fine but I would
rather strap on top of the shingles and
then put the steel because this roof
here you can see how bad the shingles
are you can see they’re raised up in
spots and I figure if you put the metal
right on top of that it’s going to be
really uneven also this gives you an air
gap between the wood and the steel and
that that’s a good idea as well alright
so we’re installing the strapping here
and you have to place it every 24 inches
so from the top here you want to lay the
first one straight down and then you can
come down 24 off top here and come down
24 the next one 24 and at the bottom you
might have to put a filler strip in
because you want the screws on 24 inch
so every panel is going to have the
screws in here and then the next one
here so what I’ve done is I’ve taken the ridge
cap and it laid the ridge cap onto the
top here and this gives me an idea of
where I want to place my strapping
because if we don’t have the strapping
in the right spot of the ridge cap here
then we’re gonna miss the screws so
because we’re going to be driving in
screws about here in our panels Lee will
have a screw here and then 24 inches
down here so we want this Ridge cap to
be Center onto the strapping here and
then we can then measure down 24 and
just continue now so installing the
strappings not really that difficult
basically all you have to do is lay one
down here and then you’re going to place
your taut one where you’re going to have
your ridge cap mounted down to and then
you can measure down from this one here
24 inches so we’re going to be 24 inch
on center all the way down to the bottom
you might have to put a filler strip in
so you always end up on 24 inch centers
so we have a foot overhang on this roof
your roof may be different so you have
to measure in and see the overhang
basically from we know that there’s
going to be a truss in here somewhere we
know basically a foot let’s say 30 and a
half inches over on this roof there’s
going to be a truss so we can throw our
measuring tape on here and go across and
then the next trust is going to be 24
inches from this one here
so basically we’re 24 and then 24 24
depending on if your roof is on 24 inch
centers or it’s on 16 inch centers
usually they’re on 24 inch centers you
want to install the screws right into
the trusses so they’re secured down
before you install any metal you want to
install the eave trim at the bottom and
the gable trim if not you can leave the
screws out at the bottom and then you
can slide the eave trim in afterwards
basically gable trim just goes right up
to the edge right on your strapping and
you can overlap the piece at the bottom
there and see fits on there nice and
what I do is I just tack it down with
some roofing nails
because you want it flat you don’t want
a head of a screw or a nail on this
piece you don’t have to secure this
really that well because the screws of
the the metal will be going through it
so these pieces are ten feet and I’ve
got one to fit so this piece is going to
go up here this piece goes on and then
the ridge cap is going to go over top
after when the roof is done you can
bring it up to there if you like so
basically just tack those on and tack
them on at the bottom and then we can
start laying our panels we’re almost
there the order your metal you want to
order the metal the whole length of the
roof right from the bottom right from
the eave right to basically the peak now
these are 15 foot lengths I want to come
up too far you’re going to have a gap in
here because the ridge cap is going to
go over top here so you don’t have to
worry about this gap here between the
metal panels they really don’t have to
meet at the top because the ridge cap
goes over and then we put in our
closures the closures are the foam
pieces that go in here and they seal it
in from wind blowing in and such so
basically all you got to do is lean
these against the roof and then pull
them up when you’re up there and then
we’re going to square them up so we have
to square up these panels because what’s
going to happen is if we don’t square
them up on the roof then they’re going
to step off on us basically we pull a
few panels up and then we can lay them
in place and then square it if you want
to do it that way or you can do it with
measurements the way I’ve done it before
is just pull the panel up and lay them
into place and then basically when you
have a square and it hasn’t stepped off
at the bottom any then you can just tack
it in I have a panel here it’s ledged up
and I have one installed basically
tacked in so it’s just tacked in place
at the top so it won’t move at the
bottom thus where I want it and so what
you want to do is you want to have the
fat lip down so they call this one here
the fat lip and see here it’s larger
than the other lip so we want that one
down and then we’re going to cover over
top of this one with the smaller lip
here so this is the smaller one so that
one’s going to lay on top
this one here we want to screw down the
seams first because we want these seams
nice and tight the most important thing
of laying these panels out is to get the
first one completely Square and straight
up and down on the roof so basically
before you tack it in place you can then
move it around a little bit to get it
square so what I’ve done is I’ve taken
two panels I put two panels together I
found that if you have two panels
together you can move the two panels
together and you can get them square
onto the roof these panels here are
perfectly straight it’s really important
to get your first panel square with the
roof now if the roof is not square and
you place you just put your panel down
and you go basically you just line it up
with the original gable from one end to
the other end then what could happen is
all your panels will be then crooked
basically what you can do is you can
just look from down here and you can see
the overhang that I have over on this
side only have about three quarters of
an inch one inch over here and on the
other end I have an inch and a quarter
or so over there so we want to slight
bit of overhang here and what I’m gonna
have to do is tip it out at the top so
then these panels will be straight so I
have my first panel there set and
basically after you set your first panel
all the other ones are going to run off
of it so if that one’s crooked then all
the other ones are going to be crooked
now it’s kind of hard sometimes to get
it perfect because the roof itself might
not be square so it doesn’t really
matter that much if it runs off a little
bit but you certainly don’t want it
running off too much because if you go
from one end and you get down to the
other end you might be too short if you
don’t want to spend the time trying to
square it up with the strapping then you
can just lay your panel and sort of
square it with two panels together
that’s what I do and sort of move it
until both the panels are basically
square so it really doesn’t matter if
this crease here like these creases line
up on the other side because no one’s
going to see that get it as close as
possible but it’s hard to to get these
to line up with both sides because one
side of the roof might not be square so
one side of the roof might be a little
different than the other side so
basically getting them to line up can be
difficult common thing that’s going to
happen if your roof is not square
is the panels are going to start
stepping off and you can see here this
one you can see that this it’s a quarter
inch off so basically you don’t have to
worry about that at the top here it’s
the bottom where you’re going to worry
if it steps off too far now you can cut
it afterwards but it is difficult to cut
so really you don’t have to worry about
the stepping off if it’s just between a
small gap like a half inch quarter inch
right so you have your first panel
installed and you’re going to install
your next panel beside it most important
thing when you’re putting down these
panels or screwing them down is to do
the seams first so basically I’ve just
tacked it in place I’ve laid the next
one over I’ve done here is I’ve just
locked the small lip over top of the fat
lip and I’ve just put installed a screw
so it’s just tacked in place for now and
I’m up at the top now what I’m going to
do is I’m going to go right down to the
bottom and I’m going to go up the ladder
and then I’m going to throw a screw in
at the bottom in the same spot but on
the bottom and that’s going to ensure
that this seam here or these laps are
then locked in place properly and then
I’m going to come back up and I’m going
to throw the screws in one here and I’m
going to make my way down and and do
this seam first and then what we can do
is we can just come over to this side
and we can then install the screws from
from here all the way down in the piece
of the strapping so then this panel will
be locked in place and then we can put
on the next one if you want you can
start installing the screws after you’ve
locked in the seam okay so you can see
the screw that I’ve tacked in at the top
and now I’m at the bottom so I’m going
to come down here and you can see that
we get down to the bottom here we see
that this panel can move and watch and
see how I can move over top of the lap
so that’s where why you want to lock in
these panels first because what will
happen is if you start throwing in
screws this could then move and you
won’t be locked in properly so that’s
why it’s really important we can just
line this up here down at the bottom
here and you make sure that this is
locked in nice
and then we can just tack a screw right
here I’m gonna tack this in place and
then I’m going to go back up and I’m
going to start running these screws down
the lap here the screws are in for the
seams you can see all the way up so
that’s locked in really well so what I
can do is i can go come over here and
then i can just tack it down this edge
here and then i can lap the next panel
on the screws are using are these metal
screws and you can see that they have a
gasket on them there’s a washer with a
gasket will try to drive one down with
the camera here I don’t think I really
see it that well but basically put it
here apply pressure okay so now it’s bit
into the wood you can see and I’ll take
the camera so I’m going to drive it down
of course you can drive it down a lot
faster and basically when it touches
that’s it that’s all we want you can see
how can’t move the washer but we haven’t
squished the rubber gasket underneath
bill roofing you’re going to install the
screws in straight lines so basically in
a straight row with your you’re
strapping here and basically all you
have to do is take some string go down
to one end tie it to one of the screws
tighten the screw down pull the string
over here and then connect the screw to
this end to your farthest side so from
that end to this end and then tighten
the string and then all you have to do
is just follow that string line and
they’ll give you a perfect nice straight
roll for your screws the placement of
the screws basically what I do is I just
put a screw here so this is your seam
you’re going to have two screws here at
your seam we have one here one here then
skip this one and then come over to here
and then come over to here and then
you’re going to have two screws again
when you start you’re gonna have two
then you skip over one here and then
skip over already here cl2 installing
the ridge cap well what I’ve done here
is I’ve taken the ridge caps and I’ve
just laid them on temporarily so I’ve
laid two pieces I have one down there
they’re in 10-foot lengths I have
another one I’ve laid them out why I do
that is because then I can get it straight.
I can line it up and I can then you know take
a look at it with the two pieces on
there looks pretty good and what I’m
going to do now is I’m going to take a
marker and I’m just going to this just
washable marker and I’m just going to
mark a line beside the ridge cap so
basically I’m just going to mark in here
in here and I’m going to go all the way
down I’ve already done it so far so I’m
going to go all the way down the reason
why I’m putting this line on here is so
then I know where to put my closures so
the closures are the foam pieces that go
in so basically they’re going to go up
about here they’re going to be in the
middle of this I have my closures here
they’re just foam pieces of foam and
basically they lock in to each other
they have little little grooves in them
tongue and groove so we can lock them in
to each other the closures here are
really important because they go up
under here and they then seal this in
because if blowing rain comes it’ll just
get right up under here and it’ll make
its way up to the top so the foam here
these closures seal that in so we want
the closure I put them right here
I put them basically in the middle here
and then we’re going to drive a screw
right in here so the screws that we
install go right into here and here all
the way across so they go into this the
ridged part of the panel not into the
flat part because if you drove it in
here then it would it would Bend this
down so screws go in here foams gonna go
in here so I’m going to start laying
these out I’ve marked my lines I know
where to put the foams basically I’m
just going to install the foams an inch
and a half up from this line here so
let’s slide this back
the line can see here and I’m going to
start installing these closures
now basically they have sticky on them
and you just stick them down so each one
locks into one another so we can start
from either end it doesn’t really matter
it’s so easy to do with the camera all
right so basically this one here you can
install over top of the fat lip if you
like once you stick them down there they
really stick well so it can we can put
it right about here inch and a half up
so it locks on to there see and then you
just stick it down right over there and
we’re going to keep going we’re gonna go
right down to the end with these
closures we can lock this one in here’s
the tongue here and the groove on this
one lock it in keep going down all the
way to the end and then you have to do
it on this side as well and then we can
install the ridge cap alright so I have
the closures on you can see just going
from one end to the other end and
basically they’re stuffed down once you
stick them down you can’t really move
them they’re locked right in so they’re
not perfectly straight but that’s not a
big deal I drop my ridge cap down so I’m
probably not going to be able to record
installing this but it’s pretty
straightforward once you lay it down on
top line it up with your lines and then
drive your screws and drive the screws
in in this area here basically so right
in here and you’re going to hit every
single Ridge of the panel here alright
guys well that was a steel roof
installation and I still have to
continue on with this but basically I’ve
given enough information I think to get
yourself started thank you for watching.

How to Install Metal Roofing Panels?

Video transcript:

All right, in this section we’re going to
be talking about how to install the
panel’s now that we’ve got the roof all
stripped out with our wood strips we’ve
got the drip edge trim installed where
we need it we’ve got the pipe flashings
all blocked out and ready to go we’re
ready to start screwing down the roof
but before you start putting screws in I
want you to think about a couple
important things first important thing
about this particular type of metal
panel is that it has two different edges
and you want to make sure to put the
right edge down first before you lap the
other one over it’s on this panel I like
to call it the skinny and the fat laps
one is smaller than the other and if you
look it up close it’ll be obvious this
edge ends right here on the curve this
other edge which I call the fat lab has
this little leg that sticks out from the
side you want to put the fat lap down
first and overlap it with the skinny lap
this is a common mistake that I see
people make by lapping the panel’s the
wrong way before you start screwing your
panels down there’s a couple things you
might want to keep in mind as as far as
deciding which part of your roof you’re
going to start running your panel from
if you live in an area of high winds or
your house is particularly exposed to
the elements you want to start running
your panels in the direction so that the
lap on the metal faces away from the
direction of the prevailing winds so
that the prevailing winds won’t tend to
want to get up under that lap and damage
the metal you don’t have that to worry
about there’s a couple other things you
want to keep in mind and deciding where
to start for this side of the model is
pretty easy you’ve got one full-length
piece that’s going to run the whole way
so I’m going to start on this open gable
end if you’re working on a part of your
house that has a valley or a hip at the
other end you’re going to want to start
at the end where you can start with one
full-length sheet that you don’t have to
cut and run towards the hip or the
valley that you’re going to have to cut
to determine how much of the panel is
going to overhang the edge of the roof
you’re going to need to decide what to
have an edge detail you’re going to use
first if you’re using a drip edge trim I
recommend running the panel so that it
over overhangs the edge of the roof just
as much as this first rib so you line
this this crease in the middle up with
the edge of the drip edge and let just
this much overhang the side of the roof
in this instance we’re going to use the
gable end trim so what I’m going to do
is line this this edge of the panel up
flush with the outside of this strip
would strip in the fascia I have to
worry about seeing this wood strip and
the shingles in the edge of the fascia
board right now because I’m going to
come back later after I’ve got this
panel installed and install the gable
end trim overtop and it’s going to hide
all that now that you’ve got the panel
pulled up on the roof it’s time to start
setting your screws this part of your
project is always best to have two
people on hand gonna have one person at
the top of the panel and one person at
the bottom to help hold it in place and
square it up the person at the bottom
has an important job because he is going
to need to measure both edges of the
panel against the drip edge to make sure
that the panel is running square against
drip edge take your time lining this
panel up correctly because once you
screw it in place the orientation of it
is going to determine how Square all the
rest of your panels on this run are
going to line up in accordance with the
fascia alright so now that we’ve got the
first panel on it’s time to talk about
something that can cause you fits later
if you don’t pay close attention to it
now and that is the fact that often
times the panel is not going to run
square with the house either it’s not
going to run squarely with the edge of
the fascia board on the outside of the
gable or it’s going to run off square
along the bottom edge
and this is due to a simple fact the
panel is going to be perfectly square
but the rest of the house that you’re
putting it on may not be even on new
construction projects I’ve often found
the house is not completely square and
this is going to show up in the way that
you install your panels there’s a couple
things you need to take into
consideration when you’re dealing with
this problem first of all if your house
has gutters on it from the ground you’re
not going to be able to see this bottom
edge of the metal so really in my
opinion it’s okay if it runs off a
little bit it’s going to get a little
bit of a stair-step to it as it goes
along you adjust for the out of
squareness but that’s okay because no
one’s going to see it from the ground if
you have an edge of the panel that’s
going to be very visible from the ground
like it’s over a deck or over your front
door you’re going to want to make
allowances to make sure that all your
panels run straight and that there’s an
even line on the bottom there’s a couple
ways you can accomplish this first one
is what we just showed you measuring off
the first panel making sure you get it
really square that’s going to help you
make sure that all the rest of the
panel’s have the exact same reveal all
the way down
another way that we accomplish keeping
these panels square is by installing a
string line down here at the bottom all
the way across you make sure it’s the
right set for the correct reveal in this
case we’re doing two inches so we set
the string two inches off the bottom
that’s going to help keep your panel
square all the way if you don’t run the
panel square it’s going to get a little
bit of a stair to step to it that looks
like this and there are a few ways you
can deal with this one of which is to
let it run off square and then come back
later try to trim it off straight that
might sound like a good idea it’s a lot
more difficult in practice than it might
sound to you to begin with if the bottom
edge of the panel runs a little
stair-stepped it’s really not that big
of a deal
and honestly you can’t see it that well
from the ground and no one’s going to
notice it I wouldn’t put a lot of time
and effort trying to get it exactly
right because oftentimes the house is a
square it’s not going to run straight
you need to keep in consideration what’s
the most visible visible side of the
metal and make allowances to keep that
side as square as possible
if the gable end is overhanging a door
or garage where you’re always going to
be see it seeing it you want to pay more
attention to that take more time getting
that edge Square and let the bottom edge
run off vice versa if the bottom edge is
going to be more visible tape spend some
more time getting this square don’t beat
yourself up if it doesn’t run perfectly
because often times no matter what kind
of house we’re putting these roofs on we
often have a little trouble getting it
perfect now that we got our first panel
installed we’re happy how we got it too
said it’s running square to the roof I
got my second panel and ready to go here
I’m gonna make a couple important points
about the way that I want you to run the
screws on the roof first of all check
that you got your panel lined up well
with the other one I’m going to double
check the measurement off the fascia
like we did on the first panel to make
sure it’s 2 inches just like the other
one we’ve got this screw this string
line that we installed in place that’s
going to also help us make sure that the
panel is running Square to the rest of
the roof all right so when you start
running your first screws I always put
my hand or if the roofs not as steep you
can actually stand on the edge of the
panel make sure that this overlapping
rib the short rib is seated very firmly
you’re going to put a screw in right
next to the rib to hold this panel down
you might be inclined to start running
your screws horizontally I want you to
actually run the screws vertically in
the correct places first along each rib
before you start running them
horizontally that might not be a
terribly obvious point at the beginning
but I’ll tell you I’ve learned the hard
way that if you run the screws
horizontally to begin with it can
actually tweak the panel a little bit
and cause them the lap on the panel not
to sit as close closely as you want it to
all right we got a panel screw down now
I’m going to show you exactly where each
screw needs to go this is very important
I see a lot of people try to skimp on
the number of screws they use don’t do
anything but exactly what I’m about to
show you here okay as I said before when
we were putting the strips on the screws
are going to be every two feet on center
or approximately every two feet on
center every 20 inches every 28 inches
it’s going to be okay you’re going to
put a screw starting as I just described
next to the lap over the other one we
got the short lap over the fat lap here
you’re going to put a screw right in the
middle of this flat pan if you have a
different style panel that’s fine just
don’t put the screw too close to the the
ridge don’t put it too close to any of
these other corrugations you want to put
put it right in the flattest part of the
metal and you’re going to put one next
to each rib as you go along as I said
we’ve screwed up this run up this run up
this run and so forth you’ve got a screw
next to each rib this panel has five
ribs so you got these screws next to
this one and then on the last panel okay
on the last little section here you’re
going to put two screws in that’s
because we want to hold this fat lip
down real tight to the roof so that the
next panel short lip that comes over it
is going to seat really well so you got
two screws in here and one in each other
one now you’ll notice at the bottom of
the panel I’ve got two screws in between
each corrugation and that’s because the
bottom edge of the roof is where you’re
going to get most your wind uplift so if
you’re ever going to have a panel get
ripped off the roof it’s because it’s
going to be weak down here at the bottom
it’s going to start here the winds going
to take it off so we always do double
screws down here at the bottom edge just
to be careful now you want to take be
careful and take precautions to make
sure that your screws are running
straight now this is something we’ve
learned over the years if you have a
really steep roof that’s very visible
from the from the ground
this screw lines are going to be
extremely visible and if your screws are
going all over the place you’re going to
be able to see it from the ground so
plate close attention if your roof is
extremely steep if your roofs pretty
flat and you don’t really see the screws
from the bottom it’s not as important
but you do want to take precautions to
make sure the screws are in a straight
line because it’s easy to get off as
you’re screwing and miss the board
however you’ll notice to get the screws
straight on this panel all we did was
line up with the other screws that we
had already put in and snap the chalk
line on it that’s probably the easiest
way to do it just as you go along snap a
line on each run that you’re going to
want to put in sometimes will mark the
panels with a pencil on the ground every
two feet if we know where the boards are
that sort of thing but I think the chalk
lines the easiest way to go and here’s a
point that might not be obvious at the
time we’re using a red chalk on this red
panel but if you don’t use a red metal I
definitely recommend going with like a
blue chalk or white chalk because the
ridge hunk is going to stain the panel
no matter what color chalk you use we’ll
back and wipe it off later that might
sound like a lot of work but the chalk
does not wash off the roof as easily as
you might think I’ve gone back on roofs
we did five years ago and there’s still
red chalk all over the roof so make sure
you wipe it off it’s going to make it
look better in the long run alright now
that I’ve showed you where the screws go
on the panel I want to make a really
important point about one of the most
important skills that you’re going to
need to pick up on to install your roof
correctly and that is exactly how to
drive the screw and install it now if
you look closely at the screw you’ll
notice on this particular screw there’s
different types of screws but they all
have going to have a rubber washer on
them covered by some sort of metal cap
on this screw the rubber washer is
slightly smaller than the little metal
cap that protects it the important point
to make is that when you drive the screw
you don’t want to drive it too far
most people’s inclination is to really
bear down on it and tighten the screw as
tight as they can every time the problem
with this is that it can damage the rubber washer by
over compressing it kind of splaying it
out and breaking the washer that’s going
to cause it to break down quicker and
could lead to some leaks in the future
what you want to do when you install the
screw put it down tight enough so that
the rubber washer is well compressed so
that it spreads out a little bit but
just to the edge of that metal cap on
top of the screw if the rubber washer
extends past the edge of this metal cap
too much what you want to do is just
back off it a little bit as a certain
art to this as you do it you’ll get
better at it but take the time with each
screw to make sure that you install it
correctly if you’re not sure if the
screw is tight enough a good way to tell
is to put your fingers down on the
washer and try to twist it if you can
twist the washer on the screw it’s not
going to be tight enough put another
half a turn or a turn on it to make sure
that it’s tight enough sometimes also
you’ll notice that this the washer will
get compressed the screw will seem tight
but that the panel beneath it is not
fully compressed up against the wood
strip below if it looks like there’s a
little bit of a bubble in the panel push
on the panel around the screw and if you
can push and move the panel a little bit
and push it down so that it touches the
wood strip below it that means that you
haven’t screwed it in quite tight enough
put another couple turns on the screw to
pull that panel flush with the wood
strip below it now that we’ve reached
the end of our roof we’re going to have
to rip our very last panel to length to
fit over top now because we’ve got drip
edge here the panel is going to extend
over top of the drip edge and overhang
the roof a little bit
I’d recommend letting the panel overhang
the same distance we do on the bottom
about an inch and a half to two inches
max as with the other measurements we’ve
made make sure to take this measurement
from the inside of the Fatlip and you’re
going to want to make two measurements
for this last panel one at the bottom
and one at the top that way if the roof
is a little bit out of square that
measurement will help to accommodate
that so we’re going to look at this down
here it’s 14 inches to the edge of the
drip edge I’m going to do an inch and a half over.
we’re going to call that 15 and a half
inches down here and up top you see that
it’s runoff about half an inch that’s 14
and a half inches up there we’re going
to call that 16 inches we’re going to
transcribe that on to our last panel
we’re going to make our rip and install
the panel as I mentioned in the
introduction this 5v crimp panel can be
installed using all the same techniques
that we’ve described in this video
series the only real difference in
installing this panel is where you put
the screws or make a quick point about
this style of panel it’s got a short lip
and a fat lift just like the Georgia rib
panel that we install throughout this
series you can tell that the fat lip has
a little wider edge to it here that’s
the side of the metal panel that goes
down underneath the short lip okay so
make sure you get that right as far as
the screws go you’re just going to put
one screw on each side of the rib you
put a screw next to the double V here
you’re going to put a screw on either
side of this middle rib and then another
screw next to the double V on the far
side by the fat lip that’s going to give
you four screws across the width of this
2 foot panel and those are the basics
for installing metal roofing panels to
see the other 13 segments of this video
series please go to roofing intelligence com you.

How to insulate a metal shed?

It is a good idea to insulate your shed. It does not only protect your stored items, but it also cools temperature inside the shed. Insulation prolongs the life of the shed too. The steps enumerated below will help you to insulate your shed.

Step 1

Choose the right insulation type. Foam boards are commonly used because they are cheaper and durable

Step 2

Cut the foam board to perfectly fit all the sides of the roof

Step 3

Apply adhesive according to the direction of the walls and roof. Ensure there is an air gap between roof panels and the foam board.

Watch the video on how to insulate steel building the fast and easy way?

Video transcript:

Something different today it’s kind of
cool if you have a metal building this
is a carport but it gets really hot in here
and I was thinking what can I do to
insulate this because you know you could
spray foam on here you know who has a
spray foam rig and it’s kind of ugly
when you put it on it you want to
drywall over it and it’s pretty ugly to
do all that stuff but I’m going to show
you how you can do that basically the
same thing for a lot less money and you
could do it yourself in just a few hours
you could do this whole garage in in one
day and this is 10 feet tall goes up
over here so and also make it a little
bit quieter at the same time maybe dead
and some of the noise you get rid of
some of that so it’s really easy to do
over at Home Depot they have this nice
Energy Star stuff it’s basically foam
with a radiant barrier on it so what
does that do that insulates very good
insulation all you do is you cut it to
fit so you cut it from here
measure from here to here back up so you
can see once I come out from here to
there your piece I’ve had about an inch
to your measurement you know three
quarters of an inch to inch to
measurement something like that which
usually cut the pieces so then what
you’re going to have to do on this
because it’s such a wide area you have
to put several dots of 100% silicone put
a few dots across here few dots across
here just a few small dots maybe about
that big around and then because it
pretty much stays on its own but you
just push the piece in
shove it in the hole let the silicone do
its work but because it’s a little bit
wider than the area even on the ceiling
when you push it in place it will stay
and I’ll show you what that’s like I
haven’t shed I’ve done the same way I’m
doing my sheds my mental buildings I’m
doing everything with this stuff right
here and it really makes a difference
makes it a lot cooler looking forward to
summer coming and being able to still
work so basically I did this shed same
way you can use it for wood metal
anything and it will insulate it it
makes it a lot cooler typically when you
put up insulation you need to have
insulation and you have to have drywall
over that for it to work but this stuff
because it has the foam and the radiant
barrier it it does all that at once so
you eliminate having to put the drywall
over it so it just pushes into place
doesn’t really have an R rating but it
does work really well so basically all I
did in here it just cut these a little
bit larger than the hole is understand
looser kind of just you know 1/2 inch
3/4 of an inch
push it into place that’s all the holds
it’s just the fact that it’s just shoved
in there it stays there it’s been that
way for years and doesn’t doesn’t work
the heat doesn’t do anything to it it
works pretty well so you can use it for
drawers attic all different types of
things you can use it for and it’s
really good insulator especially the 1 inch
friend of mine has a 1 inch and his
still shed and that’s his office and he
has a little air conditioner in the wall
and it stays cool all the time it
doesn’t you’d never even know and that’s
all I had just this didn’t have any
drywall in there it’s just like one of
those little steel sheds you got it you
get at Home Depot for like 900 bucks
so anyway oh you like it twelve by
fourteen that’s it so anyway that’s a
great little trick for you guys learning
how to do your insulation on your building.

How to paint a metal shed?

Your metal shed doesn’t have to be an eyesore. One of the best ways to give your shed a facelift is to repaint it. Below is how to go about it.

Step 1

-Clean the metal shed thoroughly

Ensure the shed is properly cleaned before applying the paint. Clean the grease and dirt on the shed. You need to scrape off the old existing paint on the shed. You may need to sandblast the shed. Without a thorough cleaning, the paint won’t stay on the shed.

Step 2

-Repair the damaged parts

If some parts of the shed are damaged, this is an opportunity to repair them. By repairing the dented or damaged parts, you will get a smooth surface that makes painting the shed easy.

Step 3

-Apply rust neutralizer

Rust neutralizer helps to prevent the metal shed from rust. Look for rust-preventive chemical and apply thoroughly on the shed. Allow it to dry properly

Step 4

-Apply metal primer

There are two types of metal primer. There is zinc chromate and red-oxide zinc chromate. Use the zinc chromate if your metal shed is made of aluminium. Use the red-oxide zinc chromate if the shed is made of galvanized steel. Allow it to dry for 24 hours.

-Use oil-based or lacquer-based paint

Latex paint is not ideal for painting metal shed. You either look for an oil-based paint or lacquer-based paint. The oil-based paint is usually called Gloss paint.

-Use a spray gun

Use a spray gun to paint your metal shed because it helps the paint to spread evenly. Don’t use a paintbrush.

This video below might help you to understand how to paint metal products:

Video transcript:

Over time metal gets old, rusty and flakes. We’ve found this old gate, we’re going to
renew it and hang it up and use it as a nice piece of decorative furniture in our garden.
For this job, we’re going to need quite a bit of equipment. We’re going to need some
gloves, face mask, earmuffs, goggles to protect your eyes, sand paper, some wire brushes,
drop cloth, paint, cleaner, solvent, but it’s going to look fantastic when we’re finished
with it.

The first thing we’ll do is we’re going to put down our drop sheet, get our mask and
safety gear on, wire brush and start scraping off all the old paint and sanding back the rust.
Another way to get paint off is using a cordless drill and a wire brush
attachment. This works a lot quicker, a lot faster and strips off the flaky paint. Third
and final way to get rust and flaky paint off your metal is with sand paper and good
old elbow grease, so let’s get to it.

Now that we have taken all the flaky paint off, it’s time to put our top coat on. For
wrought iron and steel in severe conditions you can use a primer, for aluminum and brass
use an SL Edge primer [SP]. For this gate, we have two options. We have a paintable epoxy
primer or a spray. I’m going to show you how to do both. If you’re going to use a spray
can, you got to make sure you shake it well for about two minutes. When spraying, do light
even coats and slowly build them up one by one and don’t do it on a windy day.

Using this epoxy paint, make sure you give it a good stir with a flat paddle. We’re going
to transfer this into another container, so we keep our lip clean, so the paint will seal
again. I’m not going to wear a mask because am in a well ventilated area.

Couple of tips:
– don’t forget to lay the drop sheet down, it can get messy. Don’t put too much paint
on your brush. You don’t want any runs or drips. And this is going to require two coats,
so refer to your manufacturer’s instructions about the amount of drying time in the between
the first and the second coat and this will look good when we hang it back up.

Now I’ve let our first coat dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions. We’re
going apply our second coat, allow that to dry and then our gate will be finished. And
that’s how you paint metal.

How to install metal siding on a shed?

Galvanized steel has a special zinc coating for the purpose of resisting rust. It has been used for a long time for the construction of barns, sheds and other structures. It is also used as siding on buildings. Below is what you need to make the siding of a shed:

  • Galvanized steel panels
  • Power drill with screw tip
  • One and a half inch screws along with plastic washer heads
  • Saw with a metal cutting blade
  • Gloves
  • Corner trim
  • Moisture barrier
  • Metal drill bit

Install the siding at the door

Start to install the siding at the door, window and every other opening. Ensure that you run the corrugated siding vertically for proper drainage and water protection. Avoid running siding to touch the ground. Leave one or two inches space before the siding reaches the ground. You can use a trim tool to trim the shed.

Install the panel

Start to install the panel one and a half inch wood screws with plastic washers under the head of the screws. Drive in the screws with a screw gun. Drive the screw carefully not to damage the washers. Allow a space of about 13 to 17 inches between screws. It is more convenient if you have pre-drill holes on the siding. It makes the work a lot easier

The panel must be overlapped according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Then, you can cut the panel to fit with a metal saw. Wear gloves to avoid injuries due to pointed sharp edges.

Put moisture barrier.

This is not compulsory but moisture barrier is very important if you want to avoid condensation. First is to put the moisture barrier on the wall if it is corrugated steel on foam board insulation.

How to stop condensation on the metal shed roof?

Metal shed roof condensation is a regular occurrence. If condensation is not checked, it could make stored items such as tools to become rusty and spoil fabric materials. Condensation is usually caused by water vapour in the air. The moment warm moisture loaded air come in contact with cold surfaces, condensation happens by showing up water droplets that are seen underneath the roof.

If you build a metal shed on a concrete slab without having a strong barrier beneath the concrete foundation, condensation would be a constant occurrence. Stored water will be transmitted from the ground into the shed. So, the best way to reduce condensation is when the slab foundation is being built.

Two ways to reduce condensation

There are two ways you can reduce condensation.

One way is to build the foundation properly. Ensure that the foundation has a damp proof when it is being constructed. This is the best way to eliminate the source of water that usually causes condensation.

The second way to reduce condensation is to improve the ventilation of the metal shed at the roof level. This can be done by making small holes on each side of the roof level so that warm moist air inside the shed can easily be let out. Having ventilation on each side of shed’s wall means breeze will be let in to clear the warm air. These two combinations will effectively help to eliminate condensation from your metal shed.

Conclusion

Good thinking is what produces good products. We highly recommend Arrow Sheds for their sturdiness and durability. They have some of the best storage sheds. This is not to say the other products are bad. Generally, metal sheds are maintenance-free but they have to be cleaned periodically to keep them neat. Metal sheds are more secure ways to keep your property safe from theft because most of them are pad-lockable.

If your belongings are beginning to overflow in your home, this is the best time to purchase a metal shed that would also add some beauty to your exteriors. Always look out for metal sheds made from electro-galvanized steel for peace of mind. We hope our best storage sheds review has been able to guide you to make an informed opinion for the best metal sheds suitable for your storage purposes.

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